Exploring the Enigmatic Ankai Tankai Caves and Fort

Journey Date : 14th June, 2023
Mode of Transport : Train and Auto

History of the Ankai Tankai Forts

    Ankai Fort is a historic site found in the Satmala Range hills in western India. It is located in Yeola Taluka of Nashik district in the state of Maharashtra. Geographically, it is near Manmad. The Ankai fort and Tankai fort are two different forts on adjacent hills. A common fortification is constructed to secure both. The fort was built by Yadava of Devgiri. Mughals led by Shah Jahan's General Khan Khanan captured this fort in 1635 by bribing the fort commander. In 1665, Thévenot mentions these forts as a stage on the journey between the cities of Surat and Aurangabad. Ankai was ultimately captured by the Moghals. In 1752, the fort came under control of the Maratha empire after the Treaty of Bhalki. It was subsequently captured by the British in 1818.

How To Reach Ankai Tankai Forts by Public Transport

• Manmad junction is the nearest railway station.
• Many trains are available from Mumbai CSMT as well as from Pune for Manmad Junction.
• From Manmad west you will get auto rickshaw or you can board MSRTC bus for Shirdi and get down at Ankai village.

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Travel and Trek Experience at Ankai Tankai Forts

    We had planned this trek as a monsoon trek, but the monsoon got delayed due to Cyclone Biperjoy, also this fort falls under the low monsoon region. We boarded the Shirdi Sainagar Express from Dadar station at 9:45 p.m.; we had a confirmed booking so that at least we could get one to two hours of sleep. We got down at Manmad Junction at around 1:45 a.m. Earlier, we had planned to reach base village as early as possible, but the place is unknown to us, so we decided to wait at Manmad junction till 5:00 a.m. We took a rest in the waiting room, and about 5:00 a.m. we headed towards Manmand West, where we had breakfast and started bargaining with Auto rickshaw drivers. There are a total of nine members in our group; hence, we hired two auto rickshaws for 200 rupees per auto rickshaw.

    After twenty minutes of travel, we reached the base of Ankai Tankai fort at around 6:30 a.m. The fortification of the fort is clearly visible, and it looks similar to the forts in Rajasthan. We headed towards the fort and observed that ASI had recently re-built the steps and also made an arrangement of tables to take rest. Within 5 minutes, we reached the first section of the Jain caves. We explored the cave and moved ahead towards the second section of Jain and Hindu caves, which are big and have beautiful carvings on the stones.

View of the fort from base village

Jain cave at first section

    In one of the caves, there is a statue of Godess Bhagvati carved into the stone. The carvings inside the caves are so beautiful that we almost spent 30 minutes there. We are lucky because monkeys were not there, due to which we fearlessly explored the cave; otherwise, we had to focus on taking care of our belongings.

Goddess Bhagvati statue

Jain caves at second section

    After exploring the second section of the caves, we moved ahead towards the fort. After 20 minutes of ascending, we reached the main gate, where we took 10 minutes of rest, did a Shiv garjana, and at around 8:00 a.m., we moved ahead to explore the fort. While exploring the fort, we observed ASI doing restoration work.

    We ascent for 15–20 minutes and reached at the third section of the caves. These are Hindu caves, and one of the caves has a Trimurti statue (Bramha Vishnu Mahesh). A similar statue was found on Elephenta Island, and now the same status is used as a symbol of Maharashtra Tourism. In front of the caves there is a well, but currently it is in dry condition.

Trimurti inside fourth section of cave

    After exploring the caves, again we ascent for 10 minutes and reached at Manmad door, we move left from Manmad's door towards Ankai Fort. we move ahead and observe the fourth section of caves, which is again a Hindu cave. We avoid exploring it as the path is covered with bushes and we need to climb rocks. We moved forward by climbing rock-cut steps. While climbing, the fortifications of Tankai Fort are clearly visible. As we had observed, there are multiple doors constructed to protect the Ankai fort.

Note: The path is steep but safe; there is no exposure for accidents.

View of Tankai fort from Ankai fort

    At around 8:30 a.m we reached top of the fort were we saw another section of cave, these cave are big and named as Sita Guha (cave), but now local peoples are using it as a cow shed, hence we didn't enter into it to explore, we moved ahead and come across another cave named as Agasti cave, where god idols were kept also in this cave some saits resides, they have maintained the cave very well.

    After spending a few minutes inside the cave, we moved towards and reached the plateau, where there is a lake carved in the rock. The lake is known as Kashi Lake. In the middle of Kashi Lake, there is a mausoleum of Agasti Muni. There is a huge structure away from the lake, and before reaching the structure, we come across two more lakes. The structure is huge, with a dry lake in the middle of it. The structure is known as a wada (palace). There is no ceiling on the structure, and only the arch of the structure remains. On one end of the structure, there is a pir (darga). As usual the mausoleum of a saint was illegally captured and converted into the darga, or pir by islamic invaders.

Palace or wada

    At this point, the Ankai Fort exploration ends. We come back to the Sita caves, where there is a clean place to sit outside. We had breakfast at around 9:00 a.m. and started descending. After we reached the Manmad door, we started ascending towards Tankai Fort. We reached the top within 15 minutes. There is a huge plateau on the Tankai fort that contains a ruined Shiv temple, mausoleum, and lake.

View of Ankai fort from Tankai fort

Ruined Shiv Temple at Tankai

    We explore the Shiv temple, and after taking 30 minutes of rest, we start descending Tankai at around 10:15 a.m. We reached base village at around 11:00 a.m.; we called auto rickshaw drive for pickup; they came within 15 minutes; and we reached Manmand station at around 11:45 a.m.
Note : Take contact number of auto rickshaw drive for return journey, as there is no transport available from base village of the fort.

    There are multiple restaurants at Manmad station, but we inquired about restaurants where we got good reviews of Hotel Visava, so we decided to do lunch in the Visava Hotel. We have an extra 5 hours, as we have made a reservation for Tapovan Express, which will arrive in Manmad at 5:00 p.m. The trek was completed too early as per expected time, which is also an example of bad planning.

    The trek experience is full of enjoyment, and we also got new trekking partners, Mr. Arun Barate and his family, who have experience on more than 150 treks. We returned home with new experiences and good memories.

Spending Tracker for Ankai Tankai (Excluding Food)

Time Tracker for Ankai Tankai

Places to see nearby Ankai Tankai

Katrai or Gorakgad fort

Hadbichi shendi - Thumb's up mountain

Random Clicks

Jain cave at first section

Jain cave in second section with lotus on celing

so called darga inside palace

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Bramhagiri Trek - Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling

  

Travel Date : 15th October, 2022

Mode of Transport : Train and Bus

History of the Bramhagiri Hill

    Brahmagiri is a hill in the Western Ghats of Maharashtra.It is situated in Nashik District in the Indian state of Maharashtra. Trimbakeshwar Shiva Temple is located near this place. The origin of the sacred Godavari river is near Trimbak. It flows for 1,465 kilometres (910 mi), first eastwards across the Deccan Plateau then turns southeast, entering the West Godavari district and East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, until it splits into two watercourses that widen into a large river delta and flow into the Bay of Bengal.

    Brahmagiri, the hill (giri) of Lord Brahma, appear in many mythological and legendary documents. The Puranas state that the Gautama Maharishi and his wife Ahilya resided on this hill. Saint Gautam worshiped Lord Shiva to bring Ganga in this hill. This river is known as River Gautami in the Brahmagiri hills.

    The water flows in three directions on the mountain. The one flowing towards east becomes Godavari river, one flowing towards the south is Vaitarna river and the one flowing towards the west is called the west-flowing Ganga and meets Godavari near Chakra Tirth. River Ahilya meets Godavari in front of the Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga temple.

How To Reach by Public Transport to Trimbakeshwar

• Nashik is the nearest railway station.
• Several trains available for Nashik from Mumbai and Pune.
• From Nashik road bus depot Nashik transport buses are available with 30 - 45 minutes interval for Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling.
• If you reach by road at Nashik then nearest bus depot is Nashik old CBS, you will get Nashik transport buses in every 30 - 45 minutes interval for Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling.
• From Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling temple you have to walk for 30 - 45 minutes to reach at the starting point of trek.

Travel and Trek Experience

    I first embarked on this trek as a three-year-old with my parents back in 1993. Now, after a 29-year hiatus, I finally returned to the majestic Brahmagiri Mountain alongside my friends, Kaushal, Vinayak, and Rohidas. Our primary objective for the expedition was to reach the formidable Durg Bhandar Fort via the Brahmagiri trail.

    We caught the Tapovan Express from Dadar Station in Mumbai at 6:00 AM, arriving at Nashik by approximately 10:30 AM. After deboarding, we stopped for breakfast near the station. In my experience, the hotels immediately outside the railway station lack quality and flavor; however, for a decent cup of tea, the local roadside vendors are a much better bet.

    Our itinerary began with a pilgrimage to the Saptashrungi Devi Temple in Vani. To get there, we took a Nashik city transport bus to the Old CBS (Central Bus Stand). From Old CBS, we boarded a direct bus bound for the Saptashrungi hills.

    Travel Tip: Avoid hiring private rickshaws or taxis, as they can be quite expensive. Instead, utilize the reliable state transport. Buses run from the Nashik Road depot to Old CBS every hour, and similarly, frequent services are available from Old CBS toward both Vani and Trimbakeshwar.

    We reached the base of the Saptashrungi mountain around 1:30 PM. To save time and energy, we opted for the Saptashrungi funicular train rather than climbing the stairs. The return ticket cost ₹100. After a peaceful darshan of the Goddess, we descended to the base. The temple trust has developed an excellent facility for devotees, featuring a food court, restrooms, and shops. We enjoyed a delicious and reasonably priced lunch there before starting our return journey to Nashik's Old CBS at 4:30 PM.

Vani Saptashrungi funicular train

Godess Saptashrungi

    While waiting for the MSRTC bus, a shared taxi driver offered us a ride to the Old CBS Depot for ₹120. Considering this was only ₹5 more than the state transport fare, and after ensuring the vehicle wasn't overcrowded, we decided to take the taxi for a quicker commute.

    We arrived at the Nashik Old CBS bus stand around 6:00 PM. After a quick tea break at a local stall, we headed into the depot to check the Trimbakeshwar bus timings. Fortunately, a bus was already at the platform and ready to depart. We reached Trimbakeshwar by 8:00 PM, ready for the next leg of our journey.

Accommodation at Shri Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas

    For our stay, we had pre-booked a room at the Shri Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas. Upon arrival, I realized I had forgotten to carry a physical photocopy of my Aadhaar card—an essential requirement for check-in. This led to a 30-minute hunt for a nearby Xerox shop. By the time we secured the printout and completed the check-in process, we had unfortunately missed the evening darshan hours.

    Pro-Tip for Travelers: Always carry multiple physical copies of your ID proof when staying at temple trusts or Bhakt Niwas facilities to avoid last-minute delays.

Why Choose Shri Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas?

If you are looking for budget-friendly stay in Trimbakeshwar, this is an excellent choice.

• Affordability: Room rates are significantly lower than private hotels.
• Amenities: The rooms are remarkably clean and well-maintained.
• Winter Comfort: They provide geyser facilities, ensuring 24/7 hot water.
• Online Booking: You can conveniently reserve your stay via YatraDham.org.

Swami Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas

    After freshening up, we headed toward the temple, only to find the gates had already closed for the night. Pivoting our plans, we enjoyed a quiet dinner, took a leisurely stroll through the temple corridors, and explored the local markets for some light shopping. We finally returned to the Bhakt Niwas to rest by 11:30 PM.

    The next morning, our day began at 3:30 AM to ensure we beat the crowds. By 5:00 AM, we had joined the Trimbakeshwar Temple darshan queue. The temple gates opened promptly at 5:30 AM, allowing us a serene and soulful darshan of the Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga. After capturing a few photographs outside the temple premises to preserve the memory, we headed out for a well-earned breakfast.

Trimbakeshwar Temple North Gate

Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling Temple

    After a quick breakfast, we officially began our Brahmagiri Mountain trek at approximately 7:00 AM. I had been forewarned about the local monkey population, so we made sure to pack our belongings securely. However, wildlife encounters in the Sahyadris can be unpredictable. Upon reaching the main entrance of Brahmagiri Fort, we encountered a large troop. Despite our best efforts to stay cautious, a small monkey managed to scratch my hand. Once we crossed the gate, we found a local lemon juice stall where we paused to rest, rehydrate, and thoroughly clean the wound.

Bramhagiri Trail

Bramhagiri mountain map

    Rejuvenated by a couple of glasses of fresh lemon juice, we pushed forward with the final ascent toward the summit. We reached the top of the mountain at approximately 10:00 AM. After a brief pause to get our bearings and confirm the trail direction, we veered left toward the revered Godavari Temple, famously known as the birthplace or origin point of the Godavari River. We explored two to three ancient temples in the vicinity, performing a traditional Sankalp (sacred resolution) at each site to mark our spiritual journey.

Goumikh Temple - Gautamrishi

Mulganga Temple

    After completing our prayers at the summit, we followed the trail toward Jata Mandir, situated on the right side of the mountain. This sacred site is believed to be where Lord Shiva struck his hair tresses (Jata) against the rocks. After seeking blessings, we enjoyed some fresh cucumbers from a local stall—a perfect trekking snack and began our trek toward Durg Bhandar Fort. The trail leading to Durg Bhandar conveniently originates from just behind the Jata Mandir.

    Traveler’s Advisory: At many of the smaller temples on the summit, you may encounter local priests (Pujaris) who will ask you to perform a Sankalp (sacred resolution) by holding water in your hand. Frequently, this is followed by a persistent request for Dakshina (donations/fees). In my personal experience, this can feel quite exploitative if you aren't prepared for it. While the choice to offer Dakshina is entirely yours, feel free to politely decline if you prefer to offer your prayers independently. We weren't aware of this practice beforehand, but being informed will help you navigate these interactions more confidently.

Jata Temple

    As we ventured toward our final destination, the terrain became significantly more challenging. We found ourselves on an incredibly narrow trail, with a sheer 600-foot drop into the valley on our left. Despite the adrenaline, we pressed on; however, midway through, the path became heavily obscured by dense overgrowth and tall grass.

    With the trail no longer clearly visible and the safety risks increasing, we made the strategic decision to prioritize safety over the summit. We chose not to risk a misstep on the hidden path and decided to turn back, beginning our return journey toward the safety of Jata Mandir.

Durgbhandar Fort

    By 11:30 AM, we began our descent from the summit. Roughly 30 minutes into the trek, we arrived at a historic structure known as the Dharmshala. After pausing to capture some photographs of the ancient architecture, we pushed on toward the Gangadwar gate.

    Upon reaching the junction, we veered left toward Gangadwar and took a brief intermission to refuel with some snacks. To our surprise, the route required an additional ascent of over 200 stone steps. Committed to our goal of visiting every sacred site on the mountain, we began the climb toward Ganga Mandir, reaching it by 12:30 PM. From there, we explored the fascinating 108 Shivling Caves and the spiritually significant Gorakshanath Cave.

Dharmashala

Gangadwar Gate

    After offering our prayers and exploring the historic caves, we began our final descent toward the town of Trimbakeshwar. We reached the base of the mountain by 1:00 PM, where we spent some time browsing the local markets for souvenirs before returning to the Bhakt Niwas.

    Upon checking the transit schedules with the reception desk, the staff advised us to depart by 2:00 PM to stay ahead of the Sunday evening rush, as thousands of devotees flock to the temple for weekend darshan. We quickly freshened up, packed our gear, and completed our checkout. Following a hearty local lunch, we headed to the Trimbakeshwar MSRTC bus depot. Our timing was perfect once again—a bus bound for the Nashik Old CBS depot was already at the platform, ready to depart just as we arrived.

    Pro-Tip: Don’t Miss the Hidden Stepwell! There is a stunning ancient stepwell located right beside the Brahmagiri Dharmshala. We unfortunately missed this architectural gem because we didn't know it existed. I highly recommend asking local guides or villagers to point you toward it so you don't make the same mistake!

Gautami Ganga

108 Shivling

    We arrived back at the Nashik Old CBS Depot around 4:00 PM. From there, we hailed an autorickshaw; fortunately, the driver agreed to take us to the Nashik Road Railway Station at the standard local fare. We reached the station by 4:30 PM, giving us plenty of time before our scheduled departure.

    No trip to this region is complete without picking up some local delicacies, so we made sure to purchase the famous Kondaji Chivda from a shop outside the station. However, our luck with timing finally ran thin—the train, originally scheduled for 6:00 PM, was delayed until 6:45 PM. After a long but fulfilling journey, we finally reached Dadar Station in Mumbai at 11:00 PM.

Places to see nearby

Anjaneri hill, birth place of Shri Hanuman

Panchavati

Harihar fort

Spending Tracker of Bramhagiri Trek (Excluding Food)