Harishchandragad and Raucous form of Nature

Date of Travel : 8th August, 2023.

Mode of Travel : Train and Private Jeep


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Travelogue and History of the Fort

    Harishchandragad, the pandhari of the wanderers, indeed it is the pandhari! Just as his devotees go to Pandharpur every year to meet Vitthala, we wandering trekkers like to visit Harishchandragad. No matter how many times you visit, the mind is never satisfied. I visited Harishchandragad for the first time in 2022. It was decided to come again when the monsoon was over, but it didn't work out. It got a chance  again in the rainy season of 2023, but this time there was a big change in the nature. Due to the Biperjoy storm, the rain stopped for a while, but it started raining again in the month of July, but the intensity of the rain was low, hence we decided to visit Harishchandragad.

Pachnai Waterfall

    8th August the date was fixed, as usual I called Vijay Kadu and booked a jeep from Kasara to Pachanai and called Rahul Bharmal of Pachanai village and asked him to arrange breakfast and lunch. Initially our group consisted of 11 people in total, but as the date of the trek approached, the number reduced. The only five members left, myself, Amey Vipat, Latesh Jadhav, Vilas uncle and Ravi uncle. As usual, We boarded the fast local from Dadar for Kasara leaving Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus at 10:50 pm and reached Kasara by 1:20 am. When we reached Asangaon, I called Vijay Kadu and informed about our location, so he will reach on or before time at Kasara station. We came out of the station in the east direction and came to the road, met Vijay standing there and got into the jeep and started our journey towards Pachanai village. When the jeep was stopped at the petrol pump to fill petrol, it was seen that there was dense fog, but we ignore it. Also we were relaxed as there was no rain while travelling towards Pachanai. Kasara to Pachanai is a distance of 100 kms and it takes at least three hours to reach there, after reaching Rajur there is a forest department post. There you have to pay the forest department charges 30 rupees each and 100 rupees for the car, but today the forest department officials were sleeping with the gate open. So we moved to ahead without paying charges. We reached Pachnai village at 4:30 in the morning, it was not difficult to find Rahul Bharmal's house as we had come here last year and had also downloaded the offline location. We approached the house and thought why should we disturb the family early morning hence decided to wait outside, but the dog inside their house started barking, due to which woke up everyone. Due to the recent storm, there was no electricity in the village of Pachanai. Last year when we we got Kande Pohe for breakfast so we were hoping to get same dish today, but Rahul started opening the Maggi packets and was disappointed. Looking at the situation in the village and at house, I remained calm. While we doing breakfast, the strong wind started, as if it was a storm again. The wind was so strong that the sound of it made the chest pound. Wanted to cancel this trek and go home.

Vijay Kadu (Jeep) - 7276434995
Rahul Bharmal (Accomodation at Pachnai) - 7620116476

Note : It should be noted that once you cross Rajur village there is limitation on mobile network, In the Pachanai village mobile does not get network, so communication becomes difficult in case of any difficult situation.

Harishchandragad trek strat point

    A week ago, a tourist tried to visit Harichandra Fort via Khireshwar missed his way, had to spend the two night in the forest in heavy rain and died of fever. Therefore, the forest department had made it mandatory for the tourists to take guide with them. After breakfast we started the trek at around 6:00 AM, Rahul Bharmal's cousin came with us as a guide. The heart was delighted to see the enchanting waterfall in Pachanai village. After some distance, there is an arch from where the trek to Harichandragad begins. As soon as we started the trek, the rain started, strong wind and rain continued. After walking for half an hour, came across some caves, rested there for a while. There is a waterfall falling from the cliff in this place, but due to the strong wind, the water was not reaching down, unable to enjoy bathing in this waterfall. After going some distance we came near a stream, this stream turned into a waterfall, but we continued walking to go to the fort first before getting into the stream. The Guide who was with us rushed forward and disappeared. The fog was so thick that you couldn't see a hundred meters away. We shouted at guide and asked him to stop. Considering this fog, we thought it was the right decision to take guide with us.

A small cave on the way

    After some distance, there is an iron bridge, built by the villagers for the convenience of tourists. Crossing the stream from the bridge, we went to the other side. One of the wonders experienced while crossing the stream from this bridge is that, a bird is chirping in this place in a melodious voice! This sweet sound was coming last year too. It is not known which bird this sound belongs to, the bird was not visible but its nest must be on some tree here! After some distance, a small hut-like shop was there, closed due to weekday. We took shelter of that shop and took some rest and took out the food we had brought with us from the bag. Ravi uncle had brought chikki, while Vilas uncle had brought date ladoos. I had brought Parle-g Biscuits as usual. Got refreshed after eating and headed towards the temple. Due to the rain, the soil become very sticky and slippery, making walking a bit difficult. Somehow we managed to reach the top of the hill, but the fog here was very dense. I had come here last year, so I knew there was a valley on both sides of this path. We didn't know where to go but, Guide knew the way. He took a left turn and continued walking through the fog. The peak of Harishchandreshwar temple is clearly visible from the place where we were standing, but at this time it was difficult to see the temple even 100 meters away. Walking behind the Guide, we reached the Harishchandreshwar temple.

    Harishchandreshwar temple, the carving that fills the eyes! This beautiful rock temple stands at the banks of the river Mangalganga, named by Saint Changdev. The banks, the ditches dug along the banks, the cooling water tanks and this beautiful temple built in the midst of this wall! Like 'Nageshwar', Jhanj Raja also built this temple at the source of Mangalganga alias Mula river. One should enter this premises through the east facing entrance. There are magnificent sculptures of Keertimukhas on both sides of this door. Also an important article on the left wall! ‘चक्रपाणी वटेश्वर : नन्दतु तस्य सुत : वीकट देऊ ॐ’ 'Chakrapani Vateswar: Nandatu Tasya Sut: Veikat Deu Om' This land overwhelmed by nature sculpture was also felt by Saint Changdev. Then he also chose this Harishchandragad for his penance. Eight inscriptions, six in this temple of Harishchandreshwar, and two in the cave of Kedareshwar in the vicinity, give proof of this residence of Changdev. Senior writer and Durg lover. N. Dandekar, Dr. V. B. Kolte and Dr. R. C. Dhere painstakingly researched these articles and brought his relationship with the thirteenth century saints Changdev, Jnandev and Nivrittinath to the society. According to Dr. Dhere there was another article on the right wall of this entrance too. But today it cannot be read as its letters are faded. As soon as you enter, you can see the temple of Harishchandreshwar with a high peak in the middle of the space. The temple is surrounded by some carved cave halls and water tanks on the south and west sides. The main temple has gates on both the east and west sides. In the center is a Shivlinga and Nandi is seated in front of it. The shikhara, walls, pillars and entrance of this temple are all carved with freehand. Gods and Goddesses, animals, gem-forms, nature etc. metaphors, various geometric designs are intertwined in this magnificent work. This is why scholars compare this structure with Buddha Gaya temple in the north. This beauty of Harishchandreshwar leaves the mind of the beholder dumbstruck for a few moments. Saint Changdev also fell into the same felling and that is why he chose this part for penance. During his stay here, he completed the book 'Tattvasara'. This fort is mentioned in the ovas between 1028 and 33 of this book as,

‘हरिश्चंद्र नाम पर्वतु।
तेथ महादेओ भवतु।।
सुरसिद्ध गणी विख्यातु।
सेविजे जो।।१०२९।।
हरिश्चंद्र देवता। मंगळगंगा सरिता।।
सर्वतीर्थ पुरविता। सप्तस्थान।। १०३०।।’

'Harishchandra Naam Parvatu.
Mahadeo Bhavatu was there.
Sursiddha Gani Vikhyatu.
Savage Joe..1029..
Lord Harishchandra. Mangalganga Sarita.
Provide all pilgrimages. Saptasthan. 1030..'

Like Tatvasara, information about this Harishchandra mountain is also found in Skanda, Padma, Agni, Masya Puranas.

Harishchandreshwar Temple

Lord Ganapati status at Harishchandreshwar Temple

    After seeing the Harishchandreshwar temple, we went to the nearby Kedareshwar Caves, we were curious to see the magnificent Shivlinga in the cave. During monsoons, the cave fills with water, but this year the water level was low. When we asked guide the reason for this, he blamed the clever officials of the archeology department and said, "There was an tree adjacent to this cave, so the rain water used to enter the cave, but last year the archeology department officials cut it and water from the stream in front of it also entered, but the same structure was also changed while doing the conservation work.

    Caves of Kedareshwar, this cave, which is square-shaped, has water up to the waist and there is a huge Shivlinga in the middle of it. Four ornate pillars are designed around this Shivlinga. One of them is completely intact, while three are partially lying. A sculpture of Shiva worship is also carved on the left wall of this cave. One who had faith, he would jump into that cold water and circumambulate 'that' Shiva and wake up that cave with the roar of Har Har Mahadev!

Shivling in the Kedareshwar cave

Sculpture of Shiva worship in the Kedareshwar Cave 

    While watching the Kedareshwar cave, a group of children came there and jumped into the water and stood on the base stone of the Shivlinga and started taking pictures. They were brought down, giving due understanding. But rather than telling, one should know itself. Tourists who come here use the water in Pushkarani near the temple and in this Kedareshwar cave as a swimming pool. In fact it is felt that the archeology department or the villagers should take the initiative and stop this practice. Otherwise tourists like us will have to walk around with a whip.

    After seeing Kedareshwar Caves, turning back, we came near Pushkarani next to Harishchandreshwar Temple. Fourteen niches in one row of Pushkarani. In which till 1984 there were idols of various deities. Further, for security reasons, they are kept in a room in the Harishchandreshwar temple itself. Around 1970, a Maharaja who was living on this fort started cleaning this Pushkarani. This time he got enough silver coins to fill two sacks. It was moved from here to make silver mask from these coins. But further this mask was no made, and even the coins, which were authentic instruments of history, were lost.

Pushkarni

    After seeing Pushkarni, we went to see the caves carved into the Taramati peak. In these caves, which are five-six in a row, there is a magnificent sculpture of Ganesha carved in a hall. The area in front of these caves is the main part of the fort. Ruins of some houses, water tanks, small and big temples are in this area. When the British conquered the fort in 1820, they demolished all these structures and the gates of the fort. Pushkarni and the temple of Harishchandreshwar were saved from this attack!

Ganesh cave carved in the Taramati peak

    After seeing the caves, we asked Guide to go see Konkankada, but he said it was not safe to go there due to dense fog, strong wind and rain. Disappointed, we all turned back and sat in the hut-like shop on the fort. An event occurred in 1835 on the Konkankada. Colonel Sikes also came to this fort among the British officers who came here by the stream of Harishchandragad. One morning, riding a horse at sunrise, he came to this ridge and saw his own reflection in the mist rising from the valley ahead, surrounded by a circular rainbow. In this way, the scientific miracle 'Indravajra' was also recorded at this fort.

    The shop we stopped at, belonged to Rahul Bharmal. we were all felt chilly due to the cold wind and rain, so ordered a cup of tea. We eat bhadang and drank hot tea, but the cold in our body did not go away. So everyone went inside and warmed up next to the stove. Sitting there, we started chat with Baba (old age person) and Baba told story about the accident that happened a few days ago. The state we were in in this cold wind and rain, hence one can guess what the state of those boys must have been after spending two nights in this forest! After chatting with Baba and saying goodbye to him, we started our way back. As the fort descended, we again came near the stream, seeing the stream, Vilas uncle was tempted to take a dip, but seeing the heavy rain, Guide forbade him to enter into the water. Sat near by the stream for a while and started way back again.

Top side of water fall

    At around 11:00 AM we reached the base, Guide had done his work, so asked him to go home and we spent half an hour sitting on the small plateau there, watching the Pachanai waterfall and small reverse waterfalls, eating chickpeas and enjoying the nature. Around 12:00 PM we reached Rahul Bharmal's house, food was ready. As there was no electricity supply in the village, we had our meals in the torchlight. After paying Rahul Bharmal's honorarium, around 1:00 pm we sat in the jeep for Kasara. After a journey of 3 hours, we reached near Kasara station at approximately 4:00 pm. By boarding the fast local from Kasara to Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus at 4:16 pm, we reached Dadar station at 7:00 pm

    While witnessing the beauty of Harishchandragad, the raucous form displayed by nature, was an unforgettable experience!

Note: The above information about Harishchandra Fort and its monuments is taken from an article in Loksatta newspaper. Histroy of Harishchandragad

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