Bramhagiri Trek - Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling

  

Travel Date : 15th October, 2022

Mode of Transport : Train and Bus

History of the Bramhagiri Hill

    Brahmagiri is a hill in the Western Ghats of Maharashtra.It is situated in Nashik District in the Indian state of Maharashtra. Trimbakeshwar Shiva Temple is located near this place. The origin of the sacred Godavari river is near Trimbak. It flows for 1,465 kilometres (910 mi), first eastwards across the Deccan Plateau then turns southeast, entering the West Godavari district and East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, until it splits into two watercourses that widen into a large river delta and flow into the Bay of Bengal.

    Brahmagiri, the hill (giri) of Lord Brahma, appear in many mythological and legendary documents. The Puranas state that the Gautama Maharishi and his wife Ahilya resided on this hill. Saint Gautam worshiped Lord Shiva to bring Ganga in this hill. This river is known as River Gautami in the Brahmagiri hills.

    The water flows in three directions on the mountain. The one flowing towards east becomes Godavari river, one flowing towards the south is Vaitarna river and the one flowing towards the west is called the west-flowing Ganga and meets Godavari near Chakra Tirth. River Ahilya meets Godavari in front of the Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga temple.

How To Reach by Public Transport

• Nashik is the nearest railway station.
• Several trains available for Nashik from Mumbai and Pune.
• From Nashik road bus depot Nashik transport buses are available with 30 - 45 minutes interval for Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling.
• If you reach by road at Nashik then nearest bus depot is Nashik old CBS, you will get Nashik transport buses in every 30 - 45 minutes interval for Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling.
• From Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling temple you have to walk for 30 - 45 minutes to reach at the starting point of trek.

Travel and Trek Experience

    I first embarked on this trek as a three-year-old with my parents back in 1993. Now, after a 29-year hiatus, I finally returned to the majestic Brahmagiri Mountain alongside my friends, Kaushal, Vinayak, and Rohidas. Our primary objective for the expedition was to reach the formidable Durg Bhandar Fort via the Brahmagiri trail.

    We caught the Tapovan Express from Dadar Station in Mumbai at 6:00 AM, arriving at Nashik by approximately 10:30 AM. After deboarding, we stopped for breakfast near the station. In my experience, the hotels immediately outside the railway station lack quality and flavor; however, for a decent cup of tea, the local roadside vendors are a much better bet.

    Our itinerary began with a pilgrimage to the Saptashrungi Devi Temple in Vani. To get there, we took a Nashik city transport bus to the Old CBS (Central Bus Stand). From Old CBS, we boarded a direct bus bound for the Saptashrungi hills.

    Travel Tip: Avoid hiring private rickshaws or taxis, as they can be quite expensive. Instead, utilize the reliable state transport. Buses run from the Nashik Road depot to Old CBS every hour, and similarly, frequent services are available from Old CBS toward both Vani and Trimbakeshwar.

    We reached the base of the Saptashrungi mountain around 1:30 PM. To save time and energy, we opted for the Saptashrungi funicular train rather than climbing the stairs. The return ticket cost ₹100. After a peaceful darshan of the Goddess, we descended to the base. The temple trust has developed an excellent facility for devotees, featuring a food court, restrooms, and shops. We enjoyed a delicious and reasonably priced lunch there before starting our return journey to Nashik's Old CBS at 4:30 PM.

Vani Saptashrungi funicular train

Godess Saptashrungi

    While waiting for the MSRTC bus, a shared taxi driver offered us a ride to the Old CBS Depot for ₹120. Considering this was only ₹5 more than the state transport fare, and after ensuring the vehicle wasn't overcrowded, we decided to take the taxi for a quicker commute.

    We arrived at the Nashik Old CBS bus stand around 6:00 PM. After a quick tea break at a local stall, we headed into the depot to check the Trimbakeshwar bus timings. Fortunately, a bus was already at the platform and ready to depart. We reached Trimbakeshwar by 8:00 PM, ready for the next leg of our journey.

Accommodation at Shri Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas

    For our stay, we had pre-booked a room at the Shri Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas. Upon arrival, I realized I had forgotten to carry a physical photocopy of my Aadhaar card—an essential requirement for check-in. This led to a 30-minute hunt for a nearby Xerox shop. By the time we secured the printout and completed the check-in process, we had unfortunately missed the evening darshan hours.

    Pro-Tip for Travelers: Always carry multiple physical copies of your ID proof when staying at temple trusts or Bhakt Niwas facilities to avoid last-minute delays.

Why Choose Shri Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas?

If you are looking for budget-friendly stay in Trimbakeshwar, this is an excellent choice.

• Affordability: Room rates are significantly lower than private hotels.
• Amenities: The rooms are remarkably clean and well-maintained.
• Winter Comfort: They provide geyser facilities, ensuring 24/7 hot water.
• Online Booking: You can conveniently reserve your stay via YatraDham.org.

Swami Gagangiri Maharaj Bhakt Niwas

    After freshening up, we headed toward the temple, only to find the gates had already closed for the night. Pivoting our plans, we enjoyed a quiet dinner, took a leisurely stroll through the temple corridors, and explored the local markets for some light shopping. We finally returned to the Bhakt Niwas to rest by 11:30 PM.

    The next morning, our day began at 3:30 AM to ensure we beat the crowds. By 5:00 AM, we had joined the Trimbakeshwar Temple darshan queue. The temple gates opened promptly at 5:30 AM, allowing us a serene and soulful darshan of the Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga. After capturing a few photographs outside the temple premises to preserve the memory, we headed out for a well-earned breakfast.

Trimbakeshwar Temple North Gate

Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling Temple

    After a quick breakfast, we officially began our Brahmagiri Mountain trek at approximately 7:00 AM. I had been forewarned about the local monkey population, so we made sure to pack our belongings securely. However, wildlife encounters in the Sahyadris can be unpredictable. Upon reaching the main entrance of Brahmagiri Fort, we encountered a large troop. Despite our best efforts to stay cautious, a small monkey managed to scratch my hand. Once we crossed the gate, we found a local lemon juice stall where we paused to rest, rehydrate, and thoroughly clean the wound.

Bramhagiri Trail

Bramhagiri mountain map

    Rejuvenated by a couple of glasses of fresh lemon juice, we pushed forward with the final ascent toward the summit. We reached the top of the mountain at approximately 10:00 AM. After a brief pause to get our bearings and confirm the trail direction, we veered left toward the revered Godavari Temple, famously known as the birthplace or origin point of the Godavari River. We explored two to three ancient temples in the vicinity, performing a traditional Sankalp (sacred resolution) at each site to mark our spiritual journey.

Goumikh Temple - Gautamrishi

Mulganga Temple

    After completing our prayers at the summit, we followed the trail toward Jata Mandir, situated on the right side of the mountain. This sacred site is believed to be where Lord Shiva struck his hair tresses (Jata) against the rocks. After seeking blessings, we enjoyed some fresh cucumbers from a local stall—a perfect trekking snack and began our trek toward Durg Bhandar Fort. The trail leading to Durg Bhandar conveniently originates from just behind the Jata Mandir.

    Traveler’s Advisory: At many of the smaller temples on the summit, you may encounter local priests (Pujaris) who will ask you to perform a Sankalp (sacred resolution) by holding water in your hand. Frequently, this is followed by a persistent request for Dakshina (donations/fees). In my personal experience, this can feel quite exploitative if you aren't prepared for it. While the choice to offer Dakshina is entirely yours, feel free to politely decline if you prefer to offer your prayers independently. We weren't aware of this practice beforehand, but being informed will help you navigate these interactions more confidently.

Jata Temple

    As we ventured toward our final destination, the terrain became significantly more challenging. We found ourselves on an incredibly narrow trail, with a sheer 600-foot drop into the valley on our left. Despite the adrenaline, we pressed on; however, midway through, the path became heavily obscured by dense overgrowth and tall grass.

    With the trail no longer clearly visible and the safety risks increasing, we made the strategic decision to prioritize safety over the summit. We chose not to risk a misstep on the hidden path and decided to turn back, beginning our return journey toward the safety of Jata Mandir.

Durgbhandar Fort

    By 11:30 AM, we began our descent from the summit. Roughly 30 minutes into the trek, we arrived at a historic structure known as the Dharmshala. After pausing to capture some photographs of the ancient architecture, we pushed on toward the Gangadwar gate.

    Upon reaching the junction, we veered left toward Gangadwar and took a brief intermission to refuel with some snacks. To our surprise, the route required an additional ascent of over 200 stone steps. Committed to our goal of visiting every sacred site on the mountain, we began the climb toward Ganga Mandir, reaching it by 12:30 PM. From there, we explored the fascinating 108 Shivling Caves and the spiritually significant Gorakshanath Cave.

Dharmashala

Gangadwar Gate

    After offering our prayers and exploring the historic caves, we began our final descent toward the town of Trimbakeshwar. We reached the base of the mountain by 1:00 PM, where we spent some time browsing the local markets for souvenirs before returning to the Bhakt Niwas.

    Upon checking the transit schedules with the reception desk, the staff advised us to depart by 2:00 PM to stay ahead of the Sunday evening rush, as thousands of devotees flock to the temple for weekend darshan. We quickly freshened up, packed our gear, and completed our checkout. Following a hearty local lunch, we headed to the Trimbakeshwar MSRTC bus depot. Our timing was perfect once again—a bus bound for the Nashik Old CBS depot was already at the platform, ready to depart just as we arrived.

    Pro-Tip: Don’t Miss the Hidden Stepwell! There is a stunning ancient stepwell located right beside the Brahmagiri Dharmshala. We unfortunately missed this architectural gem because we didn't know it existed. I highly recommend asking local guides or villagers to point you toward it so you don't make the same mistake!

Gautami Ganga

108 Shivling

    We arrived back at the Nashik Old CBS Depot around 4:00 PM. From there, we hailed an autorickshaw; fortunately, the driver agreed to take us to the Nashik Road Railway Station at the standard local fare. We reached the station by 4:30 PM, giving us plenty of time before our scheduled departure.

    No trip to this region is complete without picking up some local delicacies, so we made sure to purchase the famous Kondaji Chivda from a shop outside the station. However, our luck with timing finally ran thin—the train, originally scheduled for 6:00 PM, was delayed until 6:45 PM. After a long but fulfilling journey, we finally reached Dadar Station in Mumbai at 11:00 PM.

Places to see nearby

Anjaneri hill, birth place of Shri Hanuman

Panchavati

Harihar fort

Spending Tracker (Excluding Food)

Harishchandragad Trek: Discovering the Hidden Gems of the Western Ghats

 

Commence Date : 29 Jul, 2022

Mode of Transport : Train and Bus

History of the Fort

    Harishchandragad is mentioned in the ancient Agni Purana and Matsya Purana. Changdeva had performed penance in the caves of this fort. This fort is one of the oldest forts in India. The idols of Lord Vishnu are carved in the caves near the temple of Harishchandreshwar, and they are believed to be from the 11th century. Many caves were carved here in the 11th century. There is a Shiva temple on this fort, which dates back to the 12th century. The Mughals captured the fort from the Adivasi Koli Mahadev community. In 1747, the Marathas took this fort from the Mughals and appointed Krishnaji Shinde as the head of the fort. The British captured the fort in year 1818.

Travel and Trek Experience

    This was the trek I had awaited the most till date. Due to limited information about the trek, this time we joined the group ‘Bhatkanti Dhyas Gadkillyancha’ and group leader Mr. Vijay Sutar for the trek.
Including the group leader, our group had a total of seven members. Different members boarded the Kasara train from different stations. Myself boarded the train from Dadar at 11:05 PM and got down at Kasara at 1:30 AM.

Kokankada

    At Kasara railway station, we all gathered and stepped out of the station, where Vijay had already booked a jeep. Around 1:45 AM, we left from Kasara station and reached Pachnai village by 5:00 in the morning. We were almost an hour late. At Rajur, where the Forest Department checkpoint is located, we paid a fee of ₹30 per person and ₹100 for the vehicle. The group leader had arranged breakfast and lunch at a house in Pachnai village. We freshened up and had breakfast (homemade poha and tea). Around 6:30 in the morning, we began our trek. The morning weather and the view of the waterfalls were so beautiful that our excitement only grew further.

Waterfall at base village Pachnai

    After walking for a while, we reached a welcome arch — this is where the actual Harishchandragad trail begins. We took a group photo near the arch and proceeded ahead. As we climbed, we saw a few villagers carrying supplies. We asked one of them, “Is there any event happening at the fort?” He replied, “Yes, the month of Shravan has started, and tomorrow is the first Monday of Shravan. We’re taking flowers to decorate the temple.”

After trekking for about 30 minutes, we reached a spot that most tourists love to spend time at: a small cave and a tiny waterfall along the trail. We got a little wet under the waterfall and clicked some pictures before moving on. A little later, we reached a stream, which further turns into a waterfall. Some tourists were enjoying a dip in the stream. We decided to take a dip on our way back and continued ahead. A short distance further, we saw a metal bridge built by the villagers and the forest department. We crossed the stream over the bridge and reached the other side.

Trail from Pachnai to Harishchandragad

    In just two hours, we reached the top of the hill. The view from the summit was beautiful and mesmerizing. We captured the game of hide and seek between the clouds and the hills in a time-lapse and moved ahead. While walking, we saw a blanket of clouds parting below and the ancient Harishchandreshwar temple emerging in sight, which instantly took away our fatigue. The temple was so captivating that, without a pause, we kept walking in that direction.

Harishchandreshwar Shiv Temple

    Harishchandreshwar Shiva Temple was built at the source of the Mangalganga (Mula) river by Shilahara King Zhanj during the 11th to 12th century. King Zhanj constructed a total of 12 such temples at the origins of 12 rivers in the Pune and Ahilyanagar (Ahmednagar) regions.

    We entered the temple premises. On the entrance arch, there are two sculptures of Kirtimukhas, along with verses (ovyas) written by Changdev. We visited the sanctum and had darshan of Lord Mahadev, then began exploring the surrounding area of the temple. Though the temple is small, the surrounding area is filled with small caves, were idols of various deities kept.

Statue of Nandi and Shivling

Group photo

    I came out of the temple premises and turned left towards the Kedareshwar cave; inside the cave, there is a massive Shivling. Out of the four pillars, three are broken; according to mythology, the four pillars represent the four Yugas (ages). It is believed that when the fourth pillar breaks, Kaliyuga will end. If we set aside the mythological tale and look into the history of Harishchandragad fort, it is evident that at one point, the fort was under Mughal control. As was their usual practice after conquering a fort, the Mughals likely attempted to destroy the temples.

Shivling in Kedareshwar cave

    After visiting the Kedareshwar Caves, we proceeded towards the Saptateertha Pushkarni. In ancient times, the water from this Pushkarni was used for drinking and other daily chores, but now tourists are using it like a swimming pool, which is wrong and needs to stop. After spending a little time near the Pushkarni, we headed towards the most fascinating spot — the Konkankada. After walking for about a kilometer, we reached the Konkankada, but were disappointed to see it completely covered by clouds. We sat on the edge for a while and ate the snacks we had brought in our bags. Being mindful of cleanliness, we packed all the wrappers and empty plastic bottles back into our bags and started our return journey.

Saptatirth Pushkarni

    After the monsoon, we decided to visit again and started walking towards the Harishchandreshwar Temple. A little before reaching the temple, there is a road on the right that leads to the Ganesh Caves. We took the right turn and arrived near the Ganesh Caves. Inside the cave, there is a beautifully carved 8-foot-tall idol of Lord Ganesh. The cave area is so spacious that 20 to 30 people can stay inside. Even today, tourists and trekking groups spend the night in these caves.

8 Feet Lord Ganesh Statue

The stream on Harishchandra hill

    After spending around three hours exploring the fort, we began our return journey. After walking for about an hour, we reached the stream once again. We took a short break by the stream—some members even took a dip and enjoyed a refreshing bath. Although we were running behind schedule, our group leader didn’t rush us. He allowed us to enjoy every moment! After the break at the stream, we resumed our descent and reached Pachnai village by around 12:00 noon.

    After having a warm, home-cooked meal, we got into the jeep and began our journey towards Kasara. By around 4:30 PM, we reached near Kasara railway station. We boarded the 5:00 PM Kasara–CSMT train and reached Dadar by 7:15 PM.

👉 Blog Post – Harishchandragad and Raucous form of Nature

Places to See on Harishchandragad

Konkankada

Harishchandreshwar Temple

Kedareshwar Caves and Shivling

Taramati Peak

Saptatirtha Pushkarni

Ganesh Caves and Ganesh Idol

Naneghat Trek and the Thrill of its Streams

Journey Date : 23-Jul-2022
Mode of Transport : MSRTC Bus

Short History about Naneghat

    During the reign of the Satavahana (230 BCE – 230 CE), the Naneghat pass was one of the trade routes. It connected the Konkan coast communities with Deccan high plateau through Junnar.  Literally, the name nane means "coin" and ghat means "pass". The name is given because this path was used as a tollbooth to collect toll from traders crossing the hills. According to Charles Allen, there is a carved stone that from distance looks like a stupa, but is actually a two-piece carved stone container by the roadside to collect tolls.

Travel Details and Experience

    This marked my first major expedition following the COVID lockdown, and my excitement for this monsoon trek in the Sahyadris was at an all-time high. Our journey began at Dadar Railway Station at 5:15 AM, and we arrived at Kalyan Junction by 6:35 AM. From there, a quick five-minute walk took us to the Kalyan West MSRTC Bus Depot.

    We boarded an MSRTC bus bound for Ahmednagar via the scenic Malshej Ghat route. Since there is no official bus stop at the trailhead, we requested the conductor to drop us directly at the Naneghat starting point.

Traveler’s Note: The nearest official stop is actually at Tokawde, which is about 5 km away from the base of the trek. We were incredibly grateful to the bus conductor for accommodating our request and dropping us right at the entrance.

    We reached the Naneghat base around 9:15 AM and fueled up with breakfast at a local stall before beginning our climb.

    We began our ascent at approximately 9:45 AM, keeping in mind that the Naneghat trek typically requires a three-hour climb and an equal amount of time for the descent. At the first forest check-post, we paid a nominal entry fee of ₹30 per person before pushing ahead.

    The trail features three distinct water streams. Upon reaching the first stream, the gentle current allowed us to pause, capture some photographs, and enjoy the serene surroundings. Further up, we encountered a fork in the trail; we took the left path, which is the direct route toward the Naneghat summit. After navigating the third stream and a short, moderately challenging rocky patch, we emerged onto a wide plateau. The view of Nanacha Angtha (Nana’s Thumb) from here is absolutely breath-taking—a perfect spot to rest before the final stretch.

    Safety Warning: During heavy rainfall, these streams can become dangerously rapid, making them impossible to cross. Always carry extra food and a basic emergency kit in case you are stranded. Never prioritize a summit over your life.

Walking Through History: The Satavahana Trade Route

    The true essence of the Naneghat trade route begins after the plateau. Here, you walk upon ancient stone steps carved between 30 BCE and 230 CE. It is incredible to see these structures still in such good condition after nearly two millennia.

    By the halfway mark, the climb became more strenuous due to the uneven, weathered stones. However, nature provided its own rewards—a sudden rain shower swept in, cloaking the mountains in mist. The sight of rainwater cascading down the ancient steps, paired with the rhythmic sound of the flow, acted as an instant refreshment for our tired legs.

The Final Stretch to the Naneghat Caves

    After two and a half hours of climbing, we reached an ancient water cistern (Taaki), a classic sign that the summit is near. The Forest Department has installed safety railings at various viewpoints here, offering secure spots to admire the valley below. Finally, at 12:45 PM, we stepped into the main Naneghat cave. The ethereal atmosphere, surrounded by swirling clouds and cool winds, felt like stepping into heaven itself.

water cistern

    We spent some time exploring the interior of the main cave, where the walls are adorned with significant ancient Brahmi inscriptions. These historic records detail the grand donations made by Queen Naganika during the performance of various Yajnas (spiritual sacrifices) and ceremonies.

    While at the cave, we crossed paths with a German traveler and his Indian companion. It was a wonderful moment of cultural exchange as we shared our knowledge of Naneghat’s history and the significance of the cave inscriptions with them.

    Afterward, we pressed on toward the famous Naneghat reverse waterfall. Unfortunately, the weather took a dramatic turn; the plateau was completely engulfed in thick monsoon clouds, reducing visibility to less than 20 meters. Realizing we wouldn't be able to witness the reverse waterfall phenomenon safely, we pivoted our exploration toward other historical monuments. We visited the iconic Ranjan (the stone coin pot), a massive vessel used during the Satavahana era to collect tolls from traders passing through this vital commercial route.

Encryption in Bramhi lipi (font)

Coin Pot for Toll

    After enjoying tea and snacks with our new friends, we watched them begin their descent while we attempted to summit the Naneghat peak. However, the weather turned treacherous. The rain intensified, and the wind was so powerful it physically pushed us backward. Prioritizing safety, we pivoted to visit a fascinating stone-carved Lord Ganesha statue located inside an ancient water cistern.

    By 2:15 PM, we began our descent. Initially, we considered returning to Mumbai via Junnar, but a lack of local transport and information forced us to stick to the original route. As we moved lower, the rain reached a fever pitch, and we realized we were heading into a serious situation.

The Challenge of the Monsoon Streams

    During our ascent, we had crossed three manageable streams. On the way back, the third stream (now our first obstacle) had transformed into a raging torrent. We waited, hoping for help, until a group of teenagers arrived. Despite their own fear, they decided to form a human chain to cross the stream. We joined them, hearts pounding, and managed to reach the other side safely.

    However, the second stream proved even more daunting there were no large rocks for support. I was prepared to spend the night in the jungle rather than risk being swept away. Fortunately, a group of trekkers on the opposite bank spotted us and shouted encouragement. We once again utilized the human chain method and crossed safely. I cannot stress enough how much we thanked God and our fellow trekkers in that moment.

    Crucial Trekking Safety Note: In heavy rain, Sahyadri streams can become "death traps." If you are caught in such conditions, do not risk your life crossing. Always carry a waterproof bag containing dry clothes, high-energy food, and extra water in case you need to wait out the rain overnight in the forest.

The Long Walk to Vaishakhare

    By the time we reached the final stream, the flow was significantly lower due to a nearby dam wall, providing a much-needed sense of relief. We hurried toward the highway, only to face a new challenge: no public or private vehicles would stop to give us a lift.

    Exhausted, we began a 3 km trek toward Vaishakhare village. After 2 km, we found a local dhaba and stopped for a late lunch. By 6:00 PM, the owner advised us to head into the village quickly to catch an auto. We finally reached Vaishakhare at 6:30 PM and were incredibly lucky to find an autorickshaw waiting.

Journey's End: The Return to Mumbai

    The rickshaw driver dropped us at the Tokawade Bus Stand. For those planning a trip, his contact number is 9021086353 a helpful resource if you find yourself stranded. At 7:00 PM, the Junnar-Thane MSRTC bus finally arrived. We reached the Thane CBS Depot by 10:00 PM, exhausted but safe.

    While the Naneghat trail is technically an "easy" trek, the unpredictable monsoon and a lack of return logistics turned this into a hectic and difficult experience.

 

Places to Seen Near Naneghat

Jeevdhan fort

Malshej Ghat

    

    

Spending Tracker

Random Clicks

Naneghat Name Board