Travel Date: 5-November-2024
Mode of Transport: Train and Rickshaw
Travelogue
Exploring the Wilds: A Trek to Bhimashankar Jyotirlinga
I first visited the sacred Bhimashankar Mahadev temple with my parents back in 2015, but I always knew that trekking through the dense forest would be a far more exhilarating experience. When planning a trek from the base village of Khandas, there are two primary routes to choose from: the adventurous Shidi Ghat (Ladder Route) and the more scenic Ganpati Ghat. While a monsoon trek to Bhimashankar is famous for its bioluminescent "glowing moss," the recent trend of torrential, cloudburst-like rains has made the forest trails quite hazardous, leading us to opt for a post-monsoon expedition instead.
Initially, I planned a multi-day itinerary with my colleagues, Santoshraj Karande and Ameya Vipat, including a trek to Shingari Peak near Santoshraj's village. However, after some adjustments, we finalized November 5th for a dedicated trek to Bhimashankar. Using a combination of Google research and YouTube guides, I managed to pre-book an autorickshaw from the station to the base for ₹600.
The Journey Begins: Mumbai to Karjat
My day started at 4:30 AM. My mother, always supportive of my adventures, woke up early to prepare a fresh batch of Ambolya and chutney—perfect fuel for the grueling 5 to 6-hour climb ahead. By the time I reached Dadar Station at 6:40 AM, my backpack felt significantly heavier, loaded with water bottles and food supplies. As is often the case with the weekend commute, the Deccan Express, originally scheduled for 7:11 AM, arrived 20 minutes behind schedule at 7:31 AM.
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| Peak of Bhimashankar Temple |
Our group coordinated perfectly: Santoshraj boarded at CSMT, I joined from Dadar, and Ameya hopped on at Thane. Despite traveling in the unreserved general compartment, we were lucky enough to find seats and reached Neral Station by 8:45 AM. Our pre-booked rickshaw driver, Sameer Tare (+91, was already waiting for us. The drive toward Khandas village was made even more enjoyable by 8552012510) Sameer’s talkative and friendly nature. We made a strategic pitstop at Kashele market for a quick breakfast and stocked up on extra water bottles before the final stretch. By 9:50 AM, we arrived at the trailhead of the Ganpati Ghat trek.
Pro-Tip for Trekkers: Mobile network is virtually non-existent in Khandas village. Always carry sufficient cash for rickshaw fares and local stalls, as UPI or online payments will likely fail. While you can take a state transport (ST) bus from Karjat to Kashele and then a shared rickshaw to Khandas, we recommend booking a private rickshaw from Neral to save time and travel comfortably.
Navigating the Ganpati Ghat Trail
We officially hit the trail at 10:00 AM. In about 40 minutes, we reached the historic Ganpati Temple, which gives this route its name. After seeking blessings from Ganpati Bappa and enjoying a quick snack, we resumed our climb at 11:00 AM. Many trekkers debate between the two main routes: Shidi Ghat (the Ladder Route) and Ganpati Ghat. While Shidi Ghat is shorter, it is notorious for its steep, technical patches where a single lapse in judgment can be dangerous—especially since some of the old ladders were damaged years ago. For a safer and more scenic experience, the route via Padar Killa and Ganpati Ghat is much more convenient.
At one point, we encountered a fork in the road and mistakenly veered left. Feeling uncertain, we consulted the Durg Navigation app, which quickly put us back on the correct path to the right.
👉 Download Durg Navigation App from Playstore
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| Photos from Ganesh temple, Santoshraj Amey, Prathamesh. |
Pushing Through the Heat: The Trail to Padargad and Beyond
Just 30 minutes after departing from the Ganpati Temple, we arrived at the Forest Department check-post around 11:30 AM. After a brief and friendly chat with the young officials stationed there and paying the mandatory entry fee, we continued our ascent. As we progressed, the imposing silhouette of Padargad (Padar Killa) loomed closer. While the temptation to summit the fort was strong, I recalled the technical "chimney climbing" required to reach the top; considering our current pace and safety, we decided to save that challenge for another day.
By 11:40 AM, the combination of a continuous 40-minute climb and the intensifying afternoon sun began to take its toll. We found a welcoming spot in the shade of a large tree to take a well-deserved breather. To combat the dehydration, Santoshraj worked his magic with some fresh lemons he had carried along. A quick round of homemade lemon juice was exactly the refreshment we needed to regain our energy and spirit.
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| Lemonade Expert 😀 |
Deep into the Wilderness: Wildlife Encounters and the Bhimashankar Valley
After capturing a quick selfie with the towering Padargad in the background, we resumed our trek with renewed determination. Our strategy was simple: cover as much ground as possible while using the Durg Navigation app to track our progress and identify the best spots for a brief rest.
As we increased our pace, the atmosphere changed. The path led us through a dense, pristine forest where the heavy silence was broken only by the calls of wild birds and the rustle of animals. It was the perfect antidote to the relentless hustle and bustle of Mumbai. Since we were trekking on a weekday, we had the entire forest to ourselves. While the isolation was a bit unnerving at times, we were relieved to find that we had consistent mobile network coverage throughout the trail!
A Rare Wildlife Sighting
Along the way, we encountered a natural water spring where a plastic pipe had been cleverly placed to help travelers refill their bottles. We considered stopping, but recalling the Forest Department official’s advice about a well further ahead, we decided to push on. A few moments later, Ameya’s sharp eyes caught a movement about 50 meters ahead a large Monitor Lizard (Ghorpad) scurrying across our path before vanishing into the thick undergrowth. It was a thrilling reminder of the rich biodiversity of the Bhimashankar Wildlife Sanctuary.
The Edge of the World
Continuing another hundred meters, we reached a dramatic ridge connecting two mountains. To one side lay the vast, emerald expanse of the Konkan valley, and to the other, the steep cliffs of the Bhimashankar range. The view was as breathtaking as it was intimidating; staring into the depths of the valley, one realizes how unforgiving the terrain can be if a traveler loses their way. We paused to capture the sheer scale of the landscape through our lenses before carefully moving forward.
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| Selfie with Padargad |
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| Panorama, Konkan valley and Bhimashankar mountains below |
We pushed ahead with the hope of refilling our supplies at the well the Forest Department official had mentioned. However, upon arrival, we were met with a disappointing sight. The water was stagnant, covered in moss, and unfortunately, littered with plastic waste left by irresponsible tourists.
This experience taught us a vital lesson for trekking in the Sahyadris: when you encounter a clean water source, fill your bottles immediately. Delaying it in the hope of a "better" source further ahead can lead to a difficult situation. With our supply running low, we had to conserve what we had until the next reliable source appeared.
Navigating the Post-Monsoon Terrain
Continuing our journey, we crossed a dry waterfall bed nestled between two peaks and transitioned to the path skirting the adjacent mountain. As it was the end of the monsoon season, the trail was still quite muddy in several sections. Interestingly, these patches were teeming with small crabs! My local instincts kicked in—I briefly entertained the thought of collecting them—but our tight schedule meant we had to keep moving.
By 12:30 PM, after nearly 50 minutes of steady walking, we reached Padarwadi. Knowing the final stage of the trek would be the most demanding, I decided it was time to refuel. We took shelter in a rustic shed built by villagers to assist monsoon trekkers. There, I finally opened my lunch: the delicious Ambolya and coconut chutney my mother had prepared. It was the perfect energy boost for the climb ahead.
A Surprising Encounter
While resting, we met a group of elderly pilgrims descending from the summit. I was genuinely inspired to see people of that age successfully navigating such a rugged mountain trail. I asked one of the gentlemen whom I respectfully addressed as Baba how much further we had to go. He estimated another 40 to 45 minutes. While I knew his estimate likely came from years of experience on these trails, looking at the steep incline ahead, I realized it would be a true test of our fitness. Nevertheless, his words gave us the motivation we needed to start the final push.
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| Bhimashankar Forest |
A Harsh Reality: The Plastic Crisis in the Sahyadris
Before resuming our trek, we looked for a proper place to dispose of our waste and use the facilities. While there was a public toilet nearby, it was unusable—devoid of water and overwhelmed by a foul stench forcing us to seek a spot further into the forest. However, what we found behind the clearing was heartbreaking: heaps of plastic bags and bottles discarded in the brush.
It made me reflect on our society. We pride ourselves on being "educated" and earning degrees, yet our collective common sense regarding nature seems to be nonexistent. If a trekker has the strength to carry a full, heavy water bottle deep into the wilderness, it shouldn't be a difficult task to carry the empty, lightweight bottle back to a city garbage bin.
This issue isn't just the fault of irresponsible tourists; it also points to a lack of oversight from local authorities and the Forest Department. We need a better system for waste management in trekking areas to ensure these pristine ecosystems aren't permanently scarred by our presence.
The Final Ascent: Conquering the Steepest Stretch to Bhimashankar
At approximately 1:25 PM, we began the final and most grueling stage of the climb. While the elderly pilgrim we met earlier estimated 45 minutes, his timeline proved overly optimistic for us. The steep incline was an absolute test of endurance; we found ourselves breathless, forced to pause for breath every 8 to 10 steps. This section of the Bhimashankar trek is notoriously demanding, pushing even seasoned trekkers to their limits.
To maintain our stamina, we relied on a potent mix of fresh lemonade and electrolyte powder that Santoshraj had prepared. Our main concern was the clock; given our frequent breaks, we were determined to crest the mountain well before sunset.
A Minor Setback
A few hundred meters into this vertical push, Santoshraj suddenly realized his trekking stick was missing. As we looked at one another, the realization dawned on us: we had left it behind at the village shed where we stopped for lunch. Given the sheer effort required to climb this far, trekking back down to retrieve it was out of the question. We collectively decided to leave the stick behind and focused all our remaining energy on the path upward.
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| Padargad seen from Bhimashankar mountain |
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| Nature's decoration |
As we traversed the narrow path along the mountainside, I noticed a cluster of stunning water crystals that had formed on the rocks. In a moment of sheer amazement, I hurried forward to show them to Ameya. However, my excitement nearly led to a disaster; I momentarily lost my footing. Fortunately, I regained my balance just in time to avoid a dangerous fall into the deep valley below. The close call was enough to make Ameya scream in terror. Santoshraj, who was considerably further ahead, was completely unaware of the near-accident. Shaken but focused, I decided to abandon my curiosity regarding the pebbles and continued walking with extreme caution.
On the way, we crossed paths with another group of pilgrims returning from their Bhimashankar Darshan. Santoshraj mentioned the location of our forgotten trekking stick to them, suggesting they could keep it if they came across it. After a few more minutes of trekking, the sight of distant fencing and small buildings provided a surge of relief—it was clear that the temple was finally within reach.
The Longest Journey: Reaching the Summit
After a brief final rest, we pushed through the last 10 minutes of the trail, passing a small lake before finally emerging onto the Bhimashankar plateau. Our trek, which began at 11:00 AM, concluded at 4:00 PM. Covering the distance in exactly five hours, this marked the longest and most challenging trek I have successfully completed to date.
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| Wild flowers of the Sahyadris |
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| Directional signboard at the last stage of the Bhimashankar trek |
The Sacred Destination: Reaching the Bhimashankar Jyotirlinga
By the time we reached the summit, our water supplies were completely exhausted. We headed straight to the local market and ordered fresh lemonade to soothe our parched throats. One glass wasn't enough; we each ended up drinking two more just to quench our intense thirst. While we had originally hoped to explore Gupta Bhimashankar and the Nagphani peak, we were physically drained, and the evening was fast approaching.
Furthermore, Santoshraj’s family was also visiting for a pilgrimage, so we decided to wait for their arrival. Once we reunited, we proceeded together for the darshan of Bhimashankar Mahadev. Reaching the main shrine required a final effort: a one-kilometer descent followed by a climb back up the same distance. Finally, at 6:20 PM, we stood before the deity and sought the blessings of Lord Shiva.
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| Selfie - Santoshraj, Prathamesh, Ameya |
Historical Marvels: The Legacy of Chimaji Appa and the Bhimashankar Temple Architecture
After completing our darshan, I spent some time exploring the temple premises, where a massive, historic bell immediately caught my eye. This bell carries immense historical significance; it was brought here by Chimaji Appa, the legendary brother of Peshwa Bajirao I, as a trophy after his victory over the Portuguese at Vasai Fort in 1739.
While the current structure of the Bhimashankar Jyotirlinga temple is undoubtedly beautiful and spacious, one cannot help but reflect on the past. The original ancient temple suffered significant damage during various historical invasions. Though the present-day reconstruction is impressive, the modern carvings on the walls lack the intricate delicacy seen in ancient Indian temple architecture. It is a sobering realization that despite our 21st-century technology and advanced tools, the exquisite craftsmanship and spiritual depth found in ancient stone carvings are arts that have largely faded with time.
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| Historical Bell |
After our descent to the market, a warm cup of tea was exactly what we needed to rejuvenate our spirits. For the night, we were hosted at Santoshraj’s ancestral home in Pait Village. By 8:00 PM, a private car brought us to Karande Wadi, where the comfort of a hot water bath felt like pure luxury after our grueling trek.
Following a hearty dinner, we headed to the terrace to celebrate Diwali. Santoshraj had brought along firecrackers for his young son, Shivansh. Watching Shivansh’s mixture of excitement and hesitation as he experienced his first Diwali reminded me vividly of my own childhood. After the festivities, we prepared for sleep, but not before Santoshraj gave us a tip: the terrace offered a spectacular view of the sunrise. Though our bodies were exhausted from the day's trek, we ambitiously set our alarms for 5:30 AM.
Golden Hour and the Kondeshwar Peak
Surprisingly, both Ameya and I woke up even before the alarm could go off! By 6:00 AM, we were settled on the terrace, witnessing a magnificent sunrise. We captured a stunning sunrise time-lapse and soaked in the morning warmth for some much-needed Vitamin D.
From our vantage point, the Kondeshwar Hill was clearly visible to the left. While there is a motorable road leading to the Kondeshwar Mahadev Temple, our trekking instincts urged us to climb it on foot. Unfortunately, with time running thin, we had to postpone the Kondeshwar trek for a future visit.
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| Sunrise seen from Karande Wadi - Credit Amey (iPhone 14) |
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| Sunrise seen from Karande Wadi - Credit Amey (iPhone 14) |
After a refreshing morning bath, I enjoyed some tea and snacks before heading out for a peaceful stroll through the family fields. There is something incredibly grounding about picking fresh fruit directly from the source; we gathered sun-ripened lemons from the trees before heading back to the house. For breakfast, we were treated to a traditional Maharashtrian spread of Kanda Poha and sweet, crispy Anarse, a true Diwali staple.
Our morning continued with a visit to the local Santoshi Mata Temple. After seeking the Goddess's blessings, we joined Santoshraj and his father in the fields behind the house to help with the borewell irrigation. Immersed in the rural lifestyle, we spent our final hours foraging for fresh tamarind from the nearby trees simple pleasure that reminded me of the joys of village life.
Farewell to the Village
As our 2:00 PM cab to Mumbai approached, we began packing our bags. For our final meal, I was treated to a true local delicacy: authentic village-style crab curry. The flavors were incredibly fresh and a perfect culinary end to the trip. With a heart full of memories and a stomach full of great food, we officially began our journey back to the city.
Expense details
Note: The cost of lodging and meals has not been included. Also, since the partly traveled from Pait village, the cost has not been included.
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