Naneghat Trek and the Thrill of its Streams

Journey Date : 23-Jul-2022
Mode of Transport : MSRTC Bus

Short History about Naneghat

    During the reign of the Satavahana (230 BCE – 230 CE), the Naneghat pass was one of the trade routes. It connected the Konkan coast communities with Deccan high plateau through Junnar.  Literally, the name nane means "coin" and ghat means "pass". The name is given because this path was used as a tollbooth to collect toll from traders crossing the hills. According to Charles Allen, there is a carved stone that from distance looks like a stupa, but is actually a two-piece carved stone container by the roadside to collect tolls.

Travel Details and Experience

    This marked my first major expedition following the COVID lockdown, and my excitement for this monsoon trek in the Sahyadris was at an all-time high. Our journey began at Dadar Railway Station at 5:15 AM, and we arrived at Kalyan Junction by 6:35 AM. From there, a quick five-minute walk took us to the Kalyan West MSRTC Bus Depot.

    We boarded an MSRTC bus bound for Ahmednagar via the scenic Malshej Ghat route. Since there is no official bus stop at the trailhead, we requested the conductor to drop us directly at the Naneghat starting point.

Traveler’s Note: The nearest official stop is actually at Tokawde, which is about 5 km away from the base of the trek. We were incredibly grateful to the bus conductor for accommodating our request and dropping us right at the entrance.

    We reached the Naneghat base around 9:15 AM and fueled up with breakfast at a local stall before beginning our climb.

    We began our ascent at approximately 9:45 AM, keeping in mind that the Naneghat trek typically requires a three-hour climb and an equal amount of time for the descent. At the first forest check-post, we paid a nominal entry fee of ₹30 per person before pushing ahead.

    The trail features three distinct water streams. Upon reaching the first stream, the gentle current allowed us to pause, capture some photographs, and enjoy the serene surroundings. Further up, we encountered a fork in the trail; we took the left path, which is the direct route toward the Naneghat summit. After navigating the third stream and a short, moderately challenging rocky patch, we emerged onto a wide plateau. The view of Nanacha Angtha (Nana’s Thumb) from here is absolutely breath-taking—a perfect spot to rest before the final stretch.

    Safety Warning: During heavy rainfall, these streams can become dangerously rapid, making them impossible to cross. Always carry extra food and a basic emergency kit in case you are stranded. Never prioritize a summit over your life.

Walking Through History: The Satavahana Trade Route

    The true essence of the Naneghat trade route begins after the plateau. Here, you walk upon ancient stone steps carved between 30 BCE and 230 CE. It is incredible to see these structures still in such good condition after nearly two millennia.

    By the halfway mark, the climb became more strenuous due to the uneven, weathered stones. However, nature provided its own rewards—a sudden rain shower swept in, cloaking the mountains in mist. The sight of rainwater cascading down the ancient steps, paired with the rhythmic sound of the flow, acted as an instant refreshment for our tired legs.

The Final Stretch to the Naneghat Caves

    After two and a half hours of climbing, we reached an ancient water cistern (Taaki), a classic sign that the summit is near. The Forest Department has installed safety railings at various viewpoints here, offering secure spots to admire the valley below. Finally, at 12:45 PM, we stepped into the main Naneghat cave. The ethereal atmosphere, surrounded by swirling clouds and cool winds, felt like stepping into heaven itself.

water cistern

    We spent some time exploring the interior of the main cave, where the walls are adorned with significant ancient Brahmi inscriptions. These historic records detail the grand donations made by Queen Naganika during the performance of various Yajnas (spiritual sacrifices) and ceremonies.

    While at the cave, we crossed paths with a German traveler and his Indian companion. It was a wonderful moment of cultural exchange as we shared our knowledge of Naneghat’s history and the significance of the cave inscriptions with them.

    Afterward, we pressed on toward the famous Naneghat reverse waterfall. Unfortunately, the weather took a dramatic turn; the plateau was completely engulfed in thick monsoon clouds, reducing visibility to less than 20 meters. Realizing we wouldn't be able to witness the reverse waterfall phenomenon safely, we pivoted our exploration toward other historical monuments. We visited the iconic Ranjan (the stone coin pot), a massive vessel used during the Satavahana era to collect tolls from traders passing through this vital commercial route.

Encryption in Bramhi lipi (font)

Coin Pot for Toll

    After enjoying tea and snacks with our new friends, we watched them begin their descent while we attempted to summit the Naneghat peak. However, the weather turned treacherous. The rain intensified, and the wind was so powerful it physically pushed us backward. Prioritizing safety, we pivoted to visit a fascinating stone-carved Lord Ganesha statue located inside an ancient water cistern.

    By 2:15 PM, we began our descent. Initially, we considered returning to Mumbai via Junnar, but a lack of local transport and information forced us to stick to the original route. As we moved lower, the rain reached a fever pitch, and we realized we were heading into a serious situation.

The Challenge of the Monsoon Streams

    During our ascent, we had crossed three manageable streams. On the way back, the third stream (now our first obstacle) had transformed into a raging torrent. We waited, hoping for help, until a group of teenagers arrived. Despite their own fear, they decided to form a human chain to cross the stream. We joined them, hearts pounding, and managed to reach the other side safely.

    However, the second stream proved even more daunting there were no large rocks for support. I was prepared to spend the night in the jungle rather than risk being swept away. Fortunately, a group of trekkers on the opposite bank spotted us and shouted encouragement. We once again utilized the human chain method and crossed safely. I cannot stress enough how much we thanked God and our fellow trekkers in that moment.

    Crucial Trekking Safety Note: In heavy rain, Sahyadri streams can become "death traps." If you are caught in such conditions, do not risk your life crossing. Always carry a waterproof bag containing dry clothes, high-energy food, and extra water in case you need to wait out the rain overnight in the forest.

The Long Walk to Vaishakhare

    By the time we reached the final stream, the flow was significantly lower due to a nearby dam wall, providing a much-needed sense of relief. We hurried toward the highway, only to face a new challenge: no public or private vehicles would stop to give us a lift.

    Exhausted, we began a 3 km trek toward Vaishakhare village. After 2 km, we found a local dhaba and stopped for a late lunch. By 6:00 PM, the owner advised us to head into the village quickly to catch an auto. We finally reached Vaishakhare at 6:30 PM and were incredibly lucky to find an autorickshaw waiting.

Journey's End: The Return to Mumbai

    The rickshaw driver dropped us at the Tokawade Bus Stand. For those planning a trip, his contact number is 9021086353 a helpful resource if you find yourself stranded. At 7:00 PM, the Junnar-Thane MSRTC bus finally arrived. We reached the Thane CBS Depot by 10:00 PM, exhausted but safe.

    While the Naneghat trail is technically an "easy" trek, the unpredictable monsoon and a lack of return logistics turned this into a hectic and difficult experience.

 

Places to Seen Near Naneghat

Jeevdhan fort

Malshej Ghat

    

    

Spending Tracker

Random Clicks

Naneghat Name Board