Travel Date: December 19 to 22, 2022
Travel Method: Bike
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| Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj's Tomb - Vadu |
Every person born in Maharashtra carries a deep, lifelong desire to pay their respects at the sacred samadhi (memorial) of the Chhatrapati. By divine grace, my golden opportunity arrived in 2016 when I journeyed to Shivtirth Raigad Fort. Standing before the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Samadhi was a deeply emotional and unforgettable experience.
However, during that trip, my wish to visit the Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Samadhi remained unfulfilled. It was finally in December 2022 that this spiritual and historical quest was completed. Beyond paying my respects to Shambhuraje, this journey blessed me with the chance to explore the historic Purandar Fort the birthplace of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj along with several other culturally significant historical and religious places in Pune district.
The success of this incredible journey and its meticulous itinerary belongs entirely to my close friend, Vinayak Kale. He took on the planning with immense enthusiasm—carefully selecting our destinations, organizing the timeline, and navigating the roads on his motorcycle all day long to ensure we had an unforgettable experience.
Day Two
- Ketkavale - Balaji Temple
- Purandar Fort
- Ek Mukhi Datta Temple - Narayanpur
- Saint Sopankaka's Tomb and Nageshwar Temple - Saswad
- Bhuleshwar Temple - Yavat
Day Three
- Shri Chatushringi Devi Temple
- Shri Dagdushet Ganapati Temple
- Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum
- Tulsi garden purchase
- Shaniwar Wada Laser Show
Day Four
- Shree Jungli Maharaj Samadhi
- Pataleshwar Caves
- Trishunda Ganapati Temple
- Nageshwar Temple
- Kesari Wada
- Peshwe Daftar
- Pune - Mumbai Travel
Tracker
Day One
Mumbai Pune Travel
To cover the long distance of a Mumbai to Pune bike road trip and stick strictly to our itinerary, I kicked off my journey from Goregaon at 5:30 AM on December 19th. Navigating the early morning roads, I reached Dombivli station around 7:20 AM. After a brief wait, Vinayak arrived outside Dombivli East station on his motorcycle at 8:00 AM, and our official journey toward Pune began! Our route took us through Shilphata to Khopoli, where we pulled over at a local dhaba for a quick breakfast. Recharged, we headed straight toward the winding inclines of the Khandala Ghat. As we began ascending the ghat, I suddenly experienced a bout of dizziness. I immediately asked Vinayak to pull over; I got off the bike and rested on the roadside for a few minutes. Thankfully, within 5 to 10 minutes, I felt much better and we resumed our ride. After successfully crossing Khandala Ghat, we made a quick stop at a famous chikki shop right opposite the Sunil's Celebrity Wax Museum in Lonavala to pack some chikki.
Tulapur - Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Memorial
To preserve the sanctity of the shrine, visitors are required to remove their footwear before entering the inner sanctum. Inside, the atmosphere is deeply serene. I was captivated by the beautifully illuminated statue of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj, which is elegantly adorned with traditional lamps and fresh flower decorations. After taking the blessings (darshan) of Maharaj, I spent some time sitting quietly inside the memorial, soaking in the peaceful and spiritually uplifting ambiance.
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| Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Memorial Tulapur Entrance Arch |
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| Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Memorial - Tulapur |
During our visit, we witnessed a constant, beautiful influx of Shivaji Maharaj and Sambhaii Maharaj devotees and pilgrims filling the sacred space with energy. However, as I sat there observing the crowd, a few jarring behaviors caught my attention specifically regarding photography etiquette. To be clear, I have absolutely no objection to visitors capturing memories through photos. However, there is a fine line between documentation and disrespect. Photography at historical and sacred sites should always be approached with mindfulness and reverence for the deity or historical figure. I was deeply disheartened to see some visitors standing shoulder-to-shoulder, flush against the idol of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj just to snap a picture.
A Moment for Self-Reflection: Should we really be standing shoulder-to-shoulder with a legendary warrior king? At the very least, out of respect for the Chhatrapati, one should stand with folded hands (Pranam). We must introspect and maintain the sanctity of such revered spaces.
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| Sangameshwar Temple Tulapur |
After stepping out of the Sangameshwar Temple premises, we returned toward the main memorial. From there, a short walk down a few stone steps led us directly to the serene Triveni Sangam Ghat—the sacred confluence of three rivers. Standing by the banks of the Triveni Sangam, I found myself reflecting deeply on the profound history of this land, particularly the intriguing story of how the village of Tulapur earned its name.
Long before it was known as Tulapur, this historic village was called Nagargaon. The transformation of its name traces back to a fascinating historical event on December 16, 1633, during a solar eclipse. An Adilshahi Sardar named Murar Jagdev wished to perform a Tula a traditional ritual of donating wealth equivalent to an object's weight using a massive royal elephant. However, the administration faced a major engineering dilemma: How do you weigh an animal as heavy as an elephant? Designing a weighing scale capable of such a feat seemed impossible.
The solution came from Shahaji Raje Bhosale, the prominent Nizamshahi Sardar (and father of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj), who was stationed there at the time. Shahaji Raje devised a brilliant, pragmatic solution using buoyancy:
He had the elephant walk onto a large boat or ship. As the elephant’s immense weight pressed down, he marked the exact water line where the boat submerged. The elephant was then brought back to shore. Finally, the boat was filled with gold, silver, and coins until it sank precisely to the marked water line, accurately matching the elephant's weight.
Thanks to this ingenious trick, Murar Jagdev’s grand donation was successfully completed. To commemorate this unprecedented elephant Tula, the village of Nagargaon was permanently renamed Tulapur.
As I stood by the ghat, a chilling historical irony washed over me. The very man whose brilliant mind solved the riddle of the weight, giving Tulapur its name, was Shahaji Raje Bhosale. Yet, exactly 56 years later, his own grandson the brave Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj—was brutally martyred by the Mughals in this exact same village of Tulapur, and that too, on a dark, somber Amavasya (new moon) night.
One cannot help but wonder: Is it a pure, haunting coincidence, or a tragic twist of destiny written in the soil of Tulapur?
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| Confluence of Bhima, Indrayani and Bhama rivers |
Returning to our travel itinerary, we turned left and walked past Triveni Ghat, arriving shortly at the Shri Vishnu Mahabaleshwar Temple. After offering our prayers (darshan) to Lord Shiva (Mahadev), we retraced our steps back to the memorial.
As we walked from the memorial toward the main exit gate, we caught sight of a magnificent statue of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj on our left. Depicted with a sword in hand, his right foot resting firmly on a tiger's head, and the saffron flag (Zenda) fluttering against the sky, the sight instantly filled us with immense pride. After paying our respects at the monument, we exited the memorial grounds.
By this time, we were absolutely famished. We stopped at a nearby restaurant for lunch, where we noticed the menu prices were surprisingly comparable to Mumbai rates. Perhaps due to the scorching afternoon heat and the fatigue of traveling under the sun, the heavily spiced local cuisine didn't quite suit my appetite, so I ate lightly. Once lunch was over, we resumed our journey and headed toward Vadu Budruk, the historic burial site (Samadhi) of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj. 👉 Go to the top of the page
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| Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj statue |
Vadu Budruk - Tomb of Chhatrapati Shambhaji Maharaj
While navigating these rough terrains, we unexpectedly arrived at the Bhima River dam. To proceed, we had to cross a remarkably narrow retaining wall of the dam. While I had absolute faith in Vinayak’s driving skills, I wasn't willing to gamble on our luck at that exact moment. For safety, I had Vinayak park the scooter securely under the shade of a nearby tree, and we decided to cross the dam wall on foot.
After gathering local directions from residents, we finally reached the revered Samadhi (burial site) of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj. We registered our entry with the security guard at the main welcome arch (Pravesh Dwar) before entering the peaceful complex. Inside, I paid my deep respect at the sacred tomb of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj and visited the adjoining tomb of his loyal advisor, Kavi Kalash. The entire memorial area was beautifully adorned with fresh flowers, and the traditional lamps (diya) were lit, creating a deeply moving and emotionally overwhelming atmosphere.
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| The Tomb of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj |
After paying our respects at the Samadhi of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj (Shambhuraje), we visited the nearby historical weapons museum. A major highlight for budget travelers is that entry to this museum is completely free of charge.
Though modest in size—requiring just 30 to 45 minutes to explore fully—the museum boasts an incredible collection of rare, well-preserved weaponry dating back to the Maratha Empire. Beyond the arms, the legendary life and pivotal military exploits of the Maharaja are beautifully brought to life through a series of vivid historical sketches and illustrations. What stood out to us just as much as the artifacts was the museum's impeccable cleanliness and highly disciplined environment, making it a truly top-tier experience.
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| Museum Picture - Portuguese praying after exhuming the body of Saint Francis Xavier from his tomb, fearing Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj |
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| Weapons exhibition in the museum |
Exiting the museum, we walked over to the magnificent, towering statue of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj located within the memorial complex. Standing before this imposing monument, we captured a few beautiful photographs to look back on as cherished souvenirs. As we finally prepared to leave the Samadhi area, we felt completely fulfilled carrying away a unique, profound sense of spiritual and patriotic energy.
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| Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj statue at the tomb of Vadu |
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| Small dam on Bhima river |
According to our pre-planned itinerary, our next stop was supposed to be the famous agritourism village of Morachi Chincholi. However, by the time we wrapped up, it was already 6:00 PM, and we had logged a grueling 300 kilometers on the road throughout the day. Exhausted from the journey, we decided to skip Morachi Chincholi for this trip and headed straight toward Kothrud, Pune, to stay at Vinayak’s maternal uncle’s residence.
I must admit, I was incredibly nervous. Having never stayed at a relative's house before, my mind was racing with anxious thoughts: What would Vinayak’s uncle and his family be like? Would I feel comfortable or out of place? But my biggest apprehension was Pune's local cuisine. Having visited Pune multiple times in the past, I knew that the local food trends toward being quite spicy—something my palate simply isn't accustomed to handling.
Fortunately, the moment we stepped through the door, all my fears vanished. I was immediately charmed by the family's warm, welcoming, and expressive nature—a true masterclass in authentic Puneri hospitality. Best of all, they served a wonderfully flavorful, mild dinner tailored perfectly to my taste, instantly curing my food anxiety. It turned out to be an incredibly pleasant and unforgettable evening.
We had arrived at the house between 7:30 PM and 8:00 PM. After a long, tiring day on the road, we freshened up and enjoyed that delicious home-cooked meal. Post-dinner, we pulled out our travel checklist to plan our sightseeing itinerary for the following day. Vinayak’s grandmother proved to be an invaluable guide here; drawing from her local expertise, she mapped out a highly efficient route for us to travel via Saswad to Yavat and loop back to Kothrud by evening.
Grateful for Grandmother's seasoned advice, we finalized our route, sorted out our morning essentials, set our alarms for 5:00 AM, and turned in for the night! 👉 Go to the top of the page
Day Two
Waking up early the next morning, we fueled up with a delicious, piping-hot breakfast and hit the road around 7:00 AM, setting our course toward the famous Prati Balaji Temple in Ketkavale. Since it was December, a beautiful winter chill filled the air. Riding our scooter through the crisp morning breeze was incredibly refreshing, instantly doubling the joy of our road trip. Because this was an entirely new route for us, we relied on Google Maps to navigate, enjoying every bit of the scenic, winding landscapes until we safely reached Ketkavale.
Ketkavale - Balaji Temple
An ongoing school picnic had brought a massive crowd of eager children, which meant navigating the queue into the main courtyard took a little longer than expected. However, the moment we stepped inside, all the travel exhaustion vanished instantly; it felt as though we had been transported into a serene, heavenly paradise.
As luck would have it, we arrived at a golden hour and got a direct opportunity to witness the sacred Aarti of Lord Sri Venkateswara. After absorbing the divine energy of the main shrine, we explored the smaller sub-temples dedicated to various gods and goddesses within the beautifully maintained courtyard.
Before heading out, we collected our phones and shoes from the locker counter. While photography is strictly prohibited inside the inner sanctum, visitors are allowed to snap pictures outside in the courtyard. We captured some stunning shots of the pristine temple architecture and the vibrant premises before kicking off the next leg of our road trip toward the historic Purandar Fort. 👉 Go to the top of the page
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| Balaji Temple - Ketkavale |
Purandar Fort
Relying once again on Google Maps, we set off toward the historic Purandar Fort. However, in an attempt to show us a shortcut, the navigation routed us onto an incorrect path. Fortunately, we consulted local residents just in time, corrected our course, and safely made it back to the main route.
For fellow travelers planning this road trip, the actual road leading to Purandar Fort passes directly from the right side of the Ekmukhi Datta Temple in Narayanpur. Noting this landmark for a later visit, we pushed ahead. The ghat road winding up Purandar Mountain has been completely concreted and upgraded, making the uphill drive exceptionally smooth and comfortable. After navigating the scenic ghats for about 35 to 40 minutes, we arrived at the main entrance of Purandar Fort at exactly 9:40 AM.
Indian Army Security and Essential Rules at Purandar Fort
- Mandatory Government ID: For strict security clearances, every visitor must carry a valid physical identity card, such as a Driving License or an official government ID card, to gain entry.
- Fort Timings: The fort is open to tourists strictly between 10:00 AM and 5:00 PM. Plan your arrival accordingly to avoid waiting outside.
- Parking Regulations: Personal vehicles must be parked in the designated parking lot outside the main entrance. Driving vehicles past the security gate is strictly prohibited.
- Mobile Phone Ban: To maintain military security, carrying mobile phones inside the fort premises is completely prohibited. Visitors are required to safely deposit their mobile phones at the army security checkpost before entering.
After presenting our identity cards at the checkpoint and completing the official registration process, we formally began our exploration of the fort. Walking along the well-paved tarmac road, a pristine lake materialized ahead of us, with an exclusive military guest house situated on its far bank. Veering away from the guest house, we took a left turn.
Immediately to our right, the towering mountain cliffs caught our attention. We noticed specific technical markings etched onto the rock face, indicating that these sheer cliffs are actively used by soldiers for rappelling and mountaineering training. Moving a bit further, an old, weathered church appeared on our left. Although it is currently defunct, the structure stands as a silent architectural testimony to the British colonial era following the fall of the fort in 1818.
Continuing along the path, we came face-to-face with the magnificent statue of Murarbaji Deshpande, the legendary hero of the Swarajya (Maratha Empire). Standing before his monument, the historic, fierce battle he fought to defend Purandar against Mughal forces and the subsequent, monumental Treaty of Purandar vividly came alive in our minds. Bowing our heads in deep reverence to this ultimate sacrifice, we moved forward into the heart of the fort.
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| Veer Murarbaji Deshpande |
A short distance ahead, the historic main entrance of the fort appeared on our left. Although the pathway leading through this magnificent stone gate is currently closed to tourists for military security reasons, we paused to admire its monumental construction and defensive design. Continuing along the open route, we encountered another old church and a small temple nestled close together on the left side of the path. Intrigued, we stepped inside the temple to discover which deity it was dedicated to, and were deeply moved to find a sacred Shivling enshrined within. After offering a heartfelt prayer (darshan) to Lord Shiva (Mahadev), we resumed our trekking journey across the fort.
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| The entrance to the fort |
A short distance ahead, we encountered an Indian Army security checkpoint. When we inquired about the trekking route to the upper citadel, the guard on duty pointed us toward the right. However, before proceeding, military security rules required us to deposit all mobile phones and cameras at the post in exchange for a retrieval token.
A Note on Travel Ethics & National Security: Many videos on social media platforms show restricted areas of the fort. It is clear that some creators bypass the rules by hiding portable cameras just to gain views and subscribers. As responsible tourists, it is our duty to strictly follow the security regulations of our country. Violating these rules for social media clout risks compromising active defense areas and sets an irresponsible precedent.
After securing our tokens, we began the trek. Transitioning from the smooth asphalt road to a rugged dirt trail, we truly felt the rugged essence of trekking in the Sahyadri mountains. Fortunately, the footpath leading toward the military quarters was well-trodden and easy to follow, eliminating any fear of getting lost.
As we climbed, the historic Kedareshwar Temple came into view, perched high on the distant peak. Looking up at its immense altitude, we hesitated for a moment, wondering if we should attempt the climb given our tight schedule. However, remembering my previous incomplete treks at Gumatara and Durgbhandar, I was determined not to back down this time. I looked at Vinayak, firmly decided on the climb, and we pushed forward toward Kedareshwar.
The trail up the fort winds past ancient ruins, dilapidated bastions, and rock-cut freshwater tanks. After about 30 to 35 minutes of continuous climbing, we reached the base of the summit. Beautiful stone steps lead up to the highest peak of Purandar Fort, opening up into the vast courtyard of the Kedareshwar Temple.
A school group was visiting the summit, and we spent a few pleasant minutes chatting with their teachers. It was heartening to see the excited children safely interacting with the stationed Indian Army soldier, who even let them marvel at his service rifle. Inside the temple, we offered our deeply emotional prayers to Lord Shiva (Kedareshwar), rested for a brief moment, and stepped out to admire the breathtaking panoramic views.
The view from the highest peak of Purandar is absolutely spectacular—a true visual feast. From this vantage point, several strategic Indian Army training facilities are clearly visible, which perfectly explains why cameras and smartphones are strictly banned on the fort.
As the school children began their descent, the summit emptied out, leaving only Vinayak, myself, and the lone Indian soldier guarding the peak. We struck up a casual conversation with the guard, a friendly soldier named Officer Pandey. During our chat, we politely asked if we could take a closer look at the rifle slung across his shoulder.
With a warm smile, Officer Pandey agreed. He demonstrated the proper handling stance and explained the loading mechanisms. However, one detail truly highlighted the discipline of his military training: while he let us handle the frame of the rifle, the heavy tactical sling remained securely looped around his own neck at all times. This strict protocol ensures that a soldier is never separated from their weapon, preventing any sudden tactical disarmament by an adversary. Witnessing this unwavering discipline firsthand profoundly deepened our respect for the armed forces.
After bidding farewell to Officer Pandey, we began our descent. Gravity worked in our favor, and we made it back down to the main security checkpoint in just 15 minutes. We returned our tokens, safely retrieved our mobile phones, and verified with the guards that we were permitted to use our devices along the main public asphalt road ahead.
Walking further down the slope, we reached the beautifully manicured Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Garden. Standing before the radiant statue of the Maharaja, we bowed our heads in deep reverence and emotional respect, ready to continue our journey to the next destination.
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| Shri Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Park |
At the very next turn, the road was blocked with military barricades, restricting further vehicular access strictly to Indian Army vehicles. Interestingly, this checkpoint serves as the trailhead for the historic Vajragad Fort (also known as Rudramal); however, due to active military security regulations, tourist access to Vajragad is currently strictly prohibited.
Flanking both sides of this restricted road are grand, historic palaces. One of these monumental structures has been repurposed as active military quarters for Indian soldiers. Directly opposite, the other magnificent palace has been beautifully restored and converted into a public heritage museum. 👉 Go to the top of the page
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| Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj Memorial |
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| Maratha Dhop |
We entered the grand museum located inside the fort. As soon as we stepped into the main hall of the museum, a sense of immense joy and serenity filled our hearts. Right in the center of the hall stood a magnificent idol of Swarajyarakshak Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj, flanked on both sides by beautiful, elegant chandeliers—the entire ambiance was absolutely captivating. We bowed our heads in deep respect before the idol of Maharaj.
The walls of this historic fort come alive with beautiful paintings depicting the most significant and historic milestones from Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj's life. Additionally, just outside the main hall, informative display boards showcase the history of Maharashtra’s famous hill forts and its brave warriors. In a special section of the museum, we got a chance to see the historically famous 'Maratha Dhop' (a straight, double-edged sword), which truly symbolizes the grandeur of the Maratha Empire.
After witnessing this glorious historical heritage to our heart's content, we began our return journey. At around 1:20 PM, we exited through the main gateway of Purandar Fort and headed straight towards our next destination the famous 'Ekmukhi Datta Temple' in Narayanpur!
Ek Mukhi Datta Temple - Narayanpur
While the inner sanctum of the Datta Temple is modest in size, the surrounding temple complex is remarkably vast and well-designed. The management has made excellent arrangements for pilgrims, including an expansive covered seating pavilion (Shed) to shelter visitors from the sun and a dedicated Bhakt Niwas (devotee residence) catering to travelers arriving from distant regions.
Stepping inside the main shrine, I was completely mesmerized by the exquisitely crafted idol of Lord Dattatreya (Datta Guru), beautifully sculpted out of pure white marble. After offering our heartfelt prayers and soaking in the divine energy, we spent some time strolling through the remarkably tranquil temple courtyards. Although there are one or two other ancient shrines located within the same vicinity, our tight schedule meant we had to skip them and resume our journey.
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| Shri Dutt Guru - Narayanpur |
My father had highly recommended that we try the local figs, insisting that the area around Narayanpur is famous for producing incredibly sweet and high-quality fruit. Following his advice, we stopped by a local roadside market stall and picked up a basket of freshly harvested figs (Anjeer) to take home.
By the afternoon, the summer heat had peaked, making us crave something cold. We pulled over at a nearby juice center and treated ourselves to two glasses each of freshly squeezed, chilled sugarcane juice. Infused with a hint of ginger and lemon, that refreshing drink instantly revitalized our bodies and minds, completely beating the afternoon exhaustion. Wrapping up our wonderful time in Narayanpur with these delicious local treats, we kicked off our scooter and set out for our next destination: the historic town of Saswad. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Saint Sopankaka's Tomb and Nageshwar Temple - Saswad
Having traveled continuously on a two-wheeler since early morning, we arrived feeling quite exhausted and were looking for a clean facility to freshen up. Unfortunately, finding a well-maintained public restroom proved to be a major hurdle. We spent nearly 10 minutes searching the vicinity, only to find a public toilet in an absolutely deplorable and unhygienic condition making it impossible to use.
As a travel blogger, it is deeply disheartening to reflect on this. While India strides confidently toward becoming a global superpower, it is deeply unfortunate that prominent heritage and pilgrimage tourism destinations still lack basic amenities and clean public sanitation for devotees. The local administration urgently needs to address infrastructure management at these sacred sites.
Shaking off that bitter experience, we stepped into the tranquil and holy courtyard of the Sant Sopan Kaka Samadhi Sthal. The moment we took the emotional darshan at the Samadhi of the revered saint, all the mental and physical fatigue from our journey instantly vanished.
Right next to the Samadhi site sits the ancient Nageshwar Temple. We walked over to pay our respects and took a peaceful darshan of Lord Mahadev (Shiva). The spiritual ambiance of this ancient temple complex provided the perfect space to sit and rest for a while.
By the time we completed our prayers, the clock neared 1:00 PM the perfect time for pot pooja (lunch). Fortunately, Vinayak’s aunt had thoughtfully packed a homemade tiffin for our journey. We happily relished the delicious, home-cooked meal right there in the peaceful surroundings.
With our batteries fully recharged after a brief afternoon rest, we packed up and kicked off the next exciting leg of our Pune district road trip: the famous and architecturally stunning Bhuleshwar Temple near Yavat.
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| Sant Sopan Kaka Samadhi Temple |
Sant Sopan Kaka remains one of the most revered and spiritually significant figures within the Varkari sampradaya (sect) of Maharashtra. He belonged to an extraordinary family of saints who shaped the region's cultural and spiritual fabric.
To understand his divine lineage, here is how Sant Sopan Kaka is related to the other iconic saints of Maharashtra:
- Saint Nivruttinath: Elder Brother
- Saint Dnyaneshwar: Elder Brother
- Saint Muktabai: Younger Sister
Regrettably, we missed out on visiting these locations during our trip, but they are absolute must-visits:
- Shri Sangameshwar Temple: A beautiful ancient temple located at a river confluence.
- Shri Chang Vateshwar Temple: A historic site deeply linked with the yogic saint Changdev Maharaj.
- Peshwa Balaji Vishwanath Samadhi: The final resting place of the first prominent Peshwa of the Maratha Empire.
Bhuleshwar Temple - Yavat
The short Ghat road leading up to the temple is incredibly rugged, steep, and poorly maintained. The condition of the road was so severe that navigating the steep incline double-seat on a two-wheeler became a major safety risk.
For safety reasons, I decided to hop off the scooter and climb the steep incline on foot, while Vinayak carefully navigated the vehicle up the rough terrain alone. Defeating the bad roads, we finally re-entered together and reached the majestic Bhuleshwar Temple at around 2:30 PM.After parking our vehicle in the designated parking area and respectfully removing our shoes, we ascended the ancient stone steps leading to the main courtyard of the temple complex. The entryway into the core structure is intentionally modest—a uniquely small, low-ceilinged stone door.
The moment you step through this narrow threshold, you are greeted by split staircases rising symmetrically on both the left and right sides. This distinctive subterranean layout immediately gives you the striking illusion of entering an ancient, rock-cut cave temple rather than a standalone mountain structure.
Choosing the steps on the right, we ascended directly into the main temple pavilion. Immediately to the right side of the platform sits a long, beautifully carved stone turtle (Kurma). Its elongated, unique proportions were unlike any traditional temple turtle carving I had ever seen in my travels.Right in front of the main shrine, commanding the entire space, stands a magnificent, handsomely sculpted Nandi (the divine bull). Carved entirely out of a single block of polished black basalt stone, its sharp features, royal posture, and immaculate craftsmanship instantly captivate your attention, showcasing the peak of historical Maratha and Yadava-era architecture.
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| Sculptures in Bhuleshwar Temple |
After completing a deeply spiritual darshan of Lord Mahadev in the inner sanctum, we stepped out into the outer corridors to explore the historical depth of this ancient temple. Built entirely out of rich black basalt stone, the sheer density and intricacy of the carvings adorning the outer walls (jangha) are nothing short of breathtaking.
Running your eyes along these weathered stone friezes, it feels as though the entire narrative of the Mahabharata has been meticulously sculpted into the living rock. The panels are alive with dynamic depictions of warriors, chariots, royal courts, and divine interventions.
Admittedly, because I did not recall every single sub-plot of the epic or possess specialized knowledge in temple iconography, I couldn’t accurately identify every specific mythological episode or historical figure represented in the individual idols. For instance, while certain battle formations clearly hint at the Kurukshetra war, some of the finer allegorical stories remain a mystery to the casual observer.
Despite our lack of expert iconographic knowledge, the sheer artistry completely transfixed us. We lost all track of time, spending nearly an hour completely spellbound, tracing the stories told by artisans who lived centuries ago.
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| Bhuleshwar Temple |
With the evening fast approaching and a long ride ahead to reach home safely and on time, we reluctantly stepped away from the soothing, peaceful atmosphere of the temple. Before leaving the plateau entirely, we spent some time scouting the vast perimeter to check for any additional historical ruins or structures. While there are no prominent standalone monuments outside the main shrine, a deeper look into the geography reveals that this sacred site doubles as an ancient, highly strategic military fort.
The History of Daulatmangal Gad: Guarding the Temple and Trade Routes
Though it appears to be just an isolated hill temple on the surface, the fortification encircling the complex is known historically as Daulatmangal Gad (or Bhuleshwar Fort). The military evolution of this hill station is deeply fascinating:- Establishment and Strategic Purpose: While the temple itself is ancient, the surrounding defensive walls and bastions were heavily developed as a military post during the Maratha Empire and Peshwa eras to secure the region.
- The Contribution of Murar Jagdev (1629–1630 AD): The fort owes its structural strength to Murar Jagdev, a notorious chieftain of the Adilshahi Dynasty of Bijapur (infamous in Maratha history for running a donkey-drawn plow over a destroyed Pune). Around 1629–1630 AD, he constructed robust fortifications and bastions on this hill to guard the temple and monitor the critical Daund-Pune transit route, officially naming the citadel Daulatmangal.
- Guardians of the Maratha Empire: Under the reign of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and later the Peshwas, the Marathas seized control of this fort. Daulatmangal Gad was utilized as a vital watchtower and military outpost to safeguard the flanks of nearby Purandar Fort and Vajragad, while monitoring troop movements along the vital Pune-Solapur highway.
As I walked down, my eyes were drawn to the horizon where the sun had transformed into an enchanting, vibrant crimson orb. Spellbound by the breathtaking sunset painting the Deccan skies, my steps lingered. I quickly pulled out my camera to capture the dramatic landscape. Spotting a small ridge nearby, I climbed up to get an unobstructed vantage point, safely framing the golden hour against the silhouette of the historic hills.
With those stunning images safely captured on our lenses and standard memories locked away in our hearts, I hopped back onto the scooter. We joined the main road and cruised smoothly toward our final destination: Kothrud, Pune.
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| Sunset seen from Bhuleshwar hill |
After riding down the Yavat-Malshiras Ghat, we finally joined the wide Solapur-Pune Highway. We had a long 60-kilometer journey ahead of us to reach Kothrud. Even though we kept talking to pass the time, the exhaustion of traveling since early morning was starting to catch up with us. Sitting on the back seat of the scooter, I actually started dozing off. Luckily, I snapped awake just in time, narrowly avoiding a dangerous fall from the moving vehicle!
Our journey became even more challenging because this specific stretch of the Solapur highway is lined with heavy industrial factories. For a long time, we couldn't find a single tea stall to take a break. After riding for several kilometers, we finally spotted a small roadside tea tapri. We pulled over immediately, enjoyed a piping hot cup of strong ginger tea, and instantly felt completely refreshed. With our energy back, we hit the road again toward Kothrud.
We finally made it back home safely between 7:30 PM and 8:00 PM. Vinayak had a terrible headache from driving the scooter and walking under the hot sun all day long. Our dear friend Vinayak asked if I had any medicine to help ease the pain. I happened to have a painkiller with me, so I handed it to him and specifically told him to "take just half a pill." But he completely ignored my advice and swallowed the whole pill right in front of his maternal aunt-in-law, complaining that his head was hurting way too much!
After surviving the drama, it was finally time for dinner. Aunty had prepared a delicious, special meal of Makki ki Roti and Sarson ka Saag. While we were eating, we casually mentioned our exciting story from earlier in the day about how a soldier had kindly let us hold a real gun. To my absolute surprise, Grandmother looked right at us and said, "Well, I were in the NCC (National Cadet Corps), so of course I knew how to handle a gun!"
I was totally shocked that she even knew how to handle the Gun! After finishing that comforting meal, we sat down to plan our route for the third day of our adventure before finally heading to bed for some well-deserved sleep. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Day Three
A Peaceful Morning in a Terrace Garden
I woke up around 7:30 AM, feeling refreshed and ready for the day. However, Vinayak was completely exhausted from the continuous scooter riding and travel fatigue from the day before, and he just couldn't wake up. Because of this, we had to cancel the morning excursion we had carefully planned the night before. Instead of pushing him, I decided to let Vinayak rest peacefully while I used this free, relaxing morning to indulge in one of my favorite hobbies.
I have loved plants and gardening ever since I was a child. Luckily, my uncle has built an incredibly beautiful, neat, and well-maintained garden right on the terrace of his building. The garden is filled with a wonderful variety of fruit trees, colorful flowers, and many other green plants.
I headed up to the terrace with my uncle to explore his green oasis. It turned out to be a great learning experience. He shared some amazing practical tips with me, including:
- His specific routine for watering different types of plants.
- How he uses natural fertilizers to keep the fruit trees healthy.
- Simple methods for daily plant maintenance in an urban setup.
After finishing a delicious lunch, Vinayak was finally feeling much better. We sat down and drew up a brand-new itinerary for the third day of our Pune road trip. With our new plan locked in, we officially checked out of the house around 1:10 PM and left Kothrud to head toward our next major spiritual stop: the famous Chatushrungi Devi Temple.
Shri Chatushrungi Devi Temple
To reach the main temple shrine, visitors need to climb more than 100 stone steps. Walking up those steps led us straight into the main hall, where we were blessed with a deeply peaceful and pleasant darshan of Goddess Chatushrungi.
The idol of the deity is modest in size, with the main focus being her beautiful, serene lotus face. Over many years, layers of holy vermilion (shendur) applied by devoted pilgrims have covered the original stone form of the idol. Yet, the bright, radiant energy of this vermilion form was completely captivating.
After a wonderful darshan, we walked out to the temple courtyard. We bought some soft, delicious boondi laddoos as prasad to take back home and spent a few quiet moments soaking in the peaceful temple surroundings.
From the courtyard, you can see a scenic walking path that goes further up to the very top of the hill. We really wanted to climb all the way up to enjoy the panoramic, picturesque views of the Pune skyline, but we were running tight on time, and it wasn't part of our fixed itinerary for the day.
Resisting the temptation to explore further, we walked back down the steps to the parking lot. We hopped back onto our vehicle and set off for our next historic stop of Day 3: the famous Kesari Wada.
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| Chathushrungi Devi entrance arch |
There is a beautiful and deeply spiritual story behind how this temple was established during the 18th-century Peshwa era:
- Durlabhsheth Mahajani: During the 1700s, a wealthy merchant and noble devotee named Durlabhsheth Mahajani lived in Pune. Every single year, he traveled all the way to Nashik to visit the famous Saptashrungi Devi Temple in Vani.
- A Divine Vision: As he grew older, the long, rough journey to Nashik became physically impossible for him, leaving him heartbroken. Touched by his pure devotion, Goddess Saptashrungi appeared in his dream and said, "You do not need to travel so far to see me. I have manifested myself right here on a hill in the northwest part of Pune."
- Discovering the Idol: Following the dream's instructions, Durlabhsheth went to the specific hill in Pune and began excavating. To his amazement, he discovered a Swayambhu (a naturally formed, self-manifested) idol of the Goddess. He built the original temple on that exact spot, cementing it as a major spiritual landmark in Pune.
What Does the Name 'Chatushrungi' Mean?
The name Chatushrungi literally translates to "four peaks," which perfectly describes the unique geographical layout of the hill.After descending the temple steps, we drove over to our next planned destination, Kesari Wada. However, once we arrived, we discovered that Kesari Wada is closed to tourists in the afternoon between 1:00 PM and 3:00 PM.
Not wanting to waste any time sitting around, we quickly adjusted our itinerary. We turned our vehicle around and headed straight to the nearby, world-famous Shrimant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganapati Temple for a peaceful afternoon darshan. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Shrimant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati
We quickly drove over to the bustling area of Budhwar Peth. Because it is one of the busiest markets in the heart of Pune, finding a spot to park our scooter was incredibly difficult. The main roads were completely packed with vehicles and shoppers. After searching around for a long time, we finally managed to park our vehicle in a narrow side alley and walked the rest of the way to the temple.
As expected, there was a steady queue of devotees waiting to see Bappa. Fortunately, since we visited during a less crowded afternoon slot, the line moved very quickly. We managed to reach the main prayer area in just 15 minutes!
The moment we stood in front of the deity, our eyes lit up. The idol of Dagdusheth Ganpati is absolutely stunning his charming face, royal form, and the magnificent, glowing gold-plated backdrop (Prabhavali) are deeply captivating. We really wanted to stand there and just keep admiring Bappa's beautiful form. However, because a continuous stream of devotees was moving behind us, the gentle push of the crowd naturally moved us forward.
After a wonderful and deeply satisfying darshan, we stepped outside the main temple exit. We stopped by a traditional local sweet shop nearby to buy some fresh pedha as prasad to take home. With sweet treats in our bags and peace in our hearts, we started walking back toward our scooter to head toward our next neighborhood stop: Sadashiv Peth.
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| Shrimant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati Temple |
While riding through the city, Vinayak mentioned that we were close to the legendary Sujata Mastani in Sadashiv Peth. For anyone visiting Pune, the mere mention of a traditional Mastani Pune's famous thick milk-shake topped with rich ice cream, heavy cream, and nuts is enough to make your mouth water!
We pulled over immediately to treat ourselves. We ordered a glass each of their signature, cold, and incredibly delicious thick ice cream drink. It was the perfect, refreshing treat to beat the afternoon heat, leaving us completely satisfied and full of energy.
Once we finished our delicious desserts, we walked back to our scooter and hit the road again. We navigated through the central streets and headed directly toward our next cultural stop: the world-famous Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, located just a short drive away in neighboring Shukrawar Peth. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum
When we first arrived at the historic Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, we had absolutely no idea just how massive and sprawling the collection inside would be. We walked up to the main reception desk, paid the standard entry fee, and collected our admission tickets to go inside.
If you plan to take photos or record videos of the artifacts inside the galleries, please note that the museum charges a separate mobile/camera photography fee. You will need to pay this at the ticket counter before entering, or you won't be allowed to use your phone camera inside.
We officially entered the exhibition halls around 2:30 PM. Knowing that the museum closes its doors at 5:30 PM, we confidently assumed that a three-hour window would be more than enough time to explore the entire place.
We were completely wrong! The sheer volume of historical artifacts, antique instruments, and royal exhibits spread across multiple floors is overwhelming. If you want to actually appreciate the history on display, a mere three hours barely scratches the surface.
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| Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum |
We started our tour on the ground floor. Right at the beginning, we saw several ancient idols of gods and goddesses. Even though some of these statues were broken, their historical beauty was absolutely stunning. Tracing the exhibits, we walked up to the first floor and then to the second floor, before circling back down to explore the remaining sections.
The absolute highlight on the first floor is the Mastani Mahal reconstruction. It is an incredibly beautiful, eye-catching gallery that recreates the luxury of the original palace.
Right near this area, I also saw a massive, ancient door made entirely out of ivory (elephant tusks). It was my first time seeing something like this. While the incredible craftsmanship left me in awe, it also made me feel a bit sad. I couldn't help but wonder how many wild elephants must have been killed centuries ago just to create such a massive royal door.
Time flew by so fast while we were looking at these amazing historical treasures. Before we knew it, the clock struck 5:30 PM. The museum staff immediately began shutting down the galleries, turning off the exhibit lights hall by hall, and closing the doors behind us.
This triggered a frantic rush for us! We literally had to run through the last four to five exhibition halls to make sure we didn't get locked inside. Every time we stepped out of a room, the staff member right behind us would switch off the lights. After a fast and exciting race through history, we finally left the museum building at around 6:00 PM.
Floor-wise structure of the museum and main attractions:
This museum has a total of 3 floors (ground floor + 2 floors) and has as many as 42 halls , where more than 2500 rare antique items are preserved. Its structure is briefly as follows:
Ground floor - Here, historical architecture, Indian culture, and objects from daily life in the olden days are mainly displayed.Historic Doors Gallery: Ornate, carved wooden doors and windows from old palaces and forts in India.Historic kitchen utensils: Typical utensils from the old days made of copper, brass, and stone.Tambul Collection: A unique collection of old royal pandans, adkittes, chantis, lime pots and betel nut plates.Cosmetics and ornaments: antique mirrors, rare combs, mascara, and perfumes.
First Floor - This floor contains wonderful artworks related to the glorious history of war, the glory of kings and queens, and music.Mastani Mahal: A replica of the palace built for Mastani by Peshwa Bajirao (I). This is the main attraction of this museum.Arms and Armour Gallery: Historical swords, shields, spears, heavy armour and sharp daggers from the Maratha and Mughal periods.Musical Instruments Gallery: Santoor, Sarangi, Veena, Sitar and some very rare instruments with beautiful artworks in animal or human shapes.Writing materials: Ancient tools used for writing in daut, tak (pen), and modi or other scripts.
Second Floor - Here you can see a rich collection of Indian folk art, handicrafts, and objects representing ancient religious beliefs.Lamps/Lights Gallery: Antique lamps, lampshades, ornate chandeliers, and brass lamps with animal motifs.Ivory collection: extremely delicate and beautiful figurines, toys, and art objects made from elephant tusks.Textile Gallery: Authentic Paithani, Zari fabrics, shawls and traditional Indian weaving patterns from the past.Doll Gallery: Traditional Kalsutri dolls and vintage toys from various regions of India.Clay and Metal Sculptures: Rare metal and clay idols of ancient gods and goddesses.
My personal advice: It is impossible to describe in words all the historical objects we saw. If you want to truly experience this splendor, you should go and see it for yourself. Just remember one thing – if you want to see all this in a proper and peaceful way, you should have at least 4 to 5 hours at your disposal, otherwise you will be left behind like we did!
Museum Timings: Daily from 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM.
Entry Fee: Rs. 50 [for Indian citizens], Rs. 200 [for foreign tourists]; Free entry for disabled tourists.
Photography Fees [without flash]: Mobile Camera: Rs. 100; Still Camera: Rs. 200; Video Camera: Rs. 500. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Shopping at Tulsi Baug
If you want to experience the true heart of shopping in Pune, you have to visit Tulshibagh Market. It is widely known as the 'Fashion Street' of Pune! Under one massive, bustling roof, you can find absolutely everything from daily household items and trendy clothes to stylish footwear and women's cosmetics.
However, I have some honest, friendly advice for the men planning a visit here: if possible, try to explore this market alone! If you bring your wife or girlfriend along, be prepared to leave with an empty pocket 😉. Most of the colorful shops here cater specifically to women's fashion and beauty products, so it is highly smart to visit with a strict budget in mind.
Before heading out on this road trip, I knew I wanted to pick up something meaningful from Tulshibagh a beautiful purse as a special tribute to my late mother, choosing something she always loved.We dove into the crowded, energetic lanes of the market. It took me about 30 minutes of hopping from shop to shop to find the perfect style. After a lot of searching, I finally spotted a gorgeous handbag that she would have absolutely adored it was the ideal size, not too big and not too small. I proudly bought the purse, packed it safely into our travel bag, and we set off toward our next major historical landmark: the legendary Shaniwar Wada.👉 Go to the top of the page
Shaniwar Wada Laser Show
- 7:00 PM Show: Conducted in Marathi
- 8:00 PM Show: Conducted in Hindi
The spectacular multimedia show wrapped up at around 8:45 PM, and we slowly exited the historic gates of Shaniwar Wada. We felt a little bit of sadness that we couldn't explore the entire fort's inner grounds, fountains, and massive ruins due to the pitch darkness of the night. However, watching the magnificent stories of the Maratha Empire come alive during the light show completely made up for it!
After bidding a final goodbye to the illuminated fort, we jumped back onto our scooter and made our way back through the night traffic toward Kothrud, safely arriving home at around 9:00 PM.
We were starving after our long day of sightseeing, and a delicious, comforting dinner was waiting for us. Today's special menu featured a wonderful, authentic regional dish: Garadu chi Bhaji (a warm, spiced curry made from nutritious purple yam root/tuber). There was also another amazing side dish served alongside it, though after such an action-packed day, my tired brain cannot exactly remember what it was!
We happily finished every bite of our home-cooked meal, chatted about our favorite memories from the trip, and drifted off to sleep, feeling incredibly grateful for an amazing third day in Pune.
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| Shaniwar Wada |
After enjoying our satisfying dinner, we immediately sat down to map out the fourth day of our journey. Day 4 was going to be deeply personal and meaningful for me. I wanted to visit the famous Pune Archives historically known as the Peshwa Daftar to dig into my family's genealogy and search for old, ancestral documents tied to our historical roots and patriotism.
Seeing my hesitation, Vinayak’s maternal uncle stepped in and gave me some incredibly valuable advice. He told me:
As things turned out later in our journey, his practical advice proved to be absolutely golden and changed the entire course of my research project! 👉 Go to the top of the page"Even if you do not have an official contact or identification inside, just go and experience it once. Walk in, politely meet the staff, the security officers, and the archivists on duty, and simply make your inquiries."
Day Four
Today marked the fourth and final day of our unforgettable Pune tour. To make the absolute most of our remaining time, we woke up early in the morning, neatly packed my bags, and got fully ready for the day ahead.We had a busy, fast-paced schedule lined up.
Jungli Maharaj Samadhi Temple
After finishing all our packing and preparations, we kicked off our final morning at around 8:00 AM. Our very first stop was the serene Shri Jangli Maharaj Samadhi Temple, located right in the heart of the city on what is famously known as JM Road.
We climbed a few short stone steps to enter the main temple courtyard. The moment we stepped inside, the incredibly peaceful, holy, and deeply spiritual atmosphere instantly lifted our spirits. We walked to the core shrine and took a respectful darshan at the Samadhi (resting place) of the revered saint, Jangli Maharaj.
Right next to the main Samadhi structure, there is a beautiful shrine dedicated to Maruti Raya (Lord Hanuman) and another beautiful temple for Shri Dattaguru (Lord Dattatreya). We paid our respects at both of these sub-shrines before heading back toward the exit.
Because we had an ambitious itinerary packed with multiple historical places to visit in a single day, we couldn't afford to linger for too long.
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| Jungli Maharaj Samadhi Temple |
Sadguru Shri Jangli Maharaj was one of the most revered, spiritual, and miraculous saints of 19th-century Maharashtra. If you have ever traveled through Pune, you are likely familiar with the city's iconic Jangli Maharaj Road (JM Road) which was proudly named in his honor.
His life journey is a beautiful testament to spiritual depth, social reform, and interfaith harmony. Here is the essential history of his life, thoughts, and work:
1. Birth, Original Name, and the Origin of His Title
Birth and Early Life: It is widely accepted that Jangli Maharaj was born around 1810 in the small village of Honmurgi, located in the Solapur district of Maharashtra.
Original Name: His original birth name was Mohammad Shah (or Junglee Shah). Historical records indicate that after his formal spiritual initiation into the ancient Nath Panth (Nath tradition), he was given the monastic name Jagarnathji.
How He Became 'Jangli Maharaj': When he first arrived in Pune, the area where he settled (present-day Shivajinagar) was a dense, wild forest known as the Bhamburde Jungle. Because this miraculous yogi chose to reside peacefully in the wilderness, local residents affectionately and respectfully began calling him Jangli Maharaj (the King of the Forest).
2. Spiritual Evolution and Interfaith Harmony
Jangli Maharaj did not limit himself to any single religion, caste, or sect. He practiced a highly inclusive, humanistic philosophy:
Master of Languages: He was incredibly knowledgeable and fluent in multiple classical and regional languages, including Marathi, Kannada, Urdu, Sanskrit, and Persian. He studied major holy books, including the Vedas and the Quran, in great depth.
Bridging Different Faiths: His spiritual practices blended elements of the Sufi tradition, the Nath sect, and the Datta sampradaya. During his travels, he interacted with other great spiritual masters of his time, including Shri Swami Samarth of Akkalkot and Narasimha Saraswati.
Yogic Mastery: He was highly accomplished in Ashtanga Yoga, Hatha Yoga, and Mantra Shastra. He spent long periods practicing intense meditation in the pristine environments of the Himalayas and Alandi.
3. Social Reform, Work in Dehu, and Great Disciples
Unlike reclusive monks who completely cut themselves off from society, Jangli Maharaj was deeply involved in social welfare and the upliftment of the downtrodden:
Stand Against Discrimination: He strongly opposed untouchability and caste-based discrimination. His monastery (math) was open to everyone, regardless of caste or creed. He maintained a very close, affectionate bond with the pioneers of the Satyashodhak Samaj movement, including Mahatma Jyotirao Phule and Krishnarao Bhalekar.
The Dignity of Labor (Shramapratishtha): He firmly believed in earning a living through honest hard work. He led by example and taught his disciples that physical labor is a form of worship.
Service at Dehu: As a devoted follower of the saint-poet Sant Tukaram Maharaj, he built a proper road connecting Dehu village to Gopalpura (the site of Tukaram Maharaj's Vaikunthgaman). He also established a free rest-house (dharamshala) and a community kitchen (anna chhatra) to feed visiting pilgrims.
The Lineage of Disciples: He chose a female disciple, Rakhmabai Gadgil (famously revered as Tulsa Akka), as his spiritual successor by granting her his divine blessings at Narsoba Wadi. Furthermore, the legendary Marathi folk poet and Lavani artist, Patthe Bapurao, sought his mentorship in 1865. Under the Maharaj's influence, Patthe Bapurao's poetry beautifully shifted from romantic themes to spiritual devotion.
4. Mahasamadhi and the Eternal Lamp
Jangli Maharaj was known for his tall, majestic physical stature, robust health, and his love for long walks. After spending his later decades serving the people of Pune, he entered Sanjivan Mahasamadhi (passing away consciously while in deep meditation) on April 4, 1890 (Chaitra Shuddha Chaturdashi) at Bhamburde.
Even today, his sacred Samadhi shrine stands as a peaceful oasis right in the bustling heart of central Pune. Remarkably, an unbroken sacred lamp (Nandadeep) has been kept burning continuously at the temple premises ever since the day of his Mahasamadhi in 1890, radiating peace to millions of visiting devotees. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Pataleshwar Caves
After exiting the peaceful gates of the Jangli Maharaj Temple, we took a left turn and arrived at the Pataleshwar Caves complex in just a quick, five-minute walk.
The moment we stepped into the historic courtyard, the very first thing that completely grabbed our attention was the grand and incredibly picturesque Nandi Mandapa (the pavilion housing Lord Shiva's sacred bull). Honestly, I was seeing such a massive, beautifully designed Nandi pavilion for the very first time in my life!
The Engineering Genius of a Monolithic Structure
The architectural design of this circular pavilion is fascinating. Its heavy stone roof is held up by 12 magnificent, thick square pillars arranged in a circle.
What makes this structure truly mind-blowing is that the entire Nandi Mandapa including the roof, the pillars, the floor, and the Nandi idol itself was not built piece by piece. Instead, the ancient artisans carved it entirely out of a single, massive solid rock. This makes it an extraordinary monolithic structure and a true masterpiece among the historical landmarks of Pune.
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| Pataleshwar Caves Nandi Mandap |
Leaving the magnificent monolithic Nandi Mandapa behind, we stepped deep into the cool, dark interiors of the main rock-cut cave. We paid our respects and took a peaceful darshan of the sacred Shivalinga (Lord Mahadev) enshrined in the central sanctum.
After praying, we spent some time walking through the wide corridors and exploring the massive underground courtyard to closely observe the ancient cave walls.
As I examined the basalt rock surfaces closely, it became very clear that the construction of this 8th-century cave temple was suddenly left unfinished. Most of the other ancient rock-cut caves I have explored across Maharashtra are incredibly neat, uniform, and carved with perfectly sharp, right-angled corners.
In contrast, while the heavy square pillars at Pataleshwar are perfectly shaped and beautiful, the surrounding walls and ceilings feel quite raw, uneven, and unpolished. Exploring this unique mix of brilliant architecture and incomplete history gave us a deeper appreciation for Pune's heritage.
Our insightful tour of the Pataleshwar Caves wrapped up in about 15 to 20 minutes. With our curiosity satisfied, we hopped back onto our vehicle and turned our attention toward our next exciting destination of Day four the rare and historic Shri Trishundya Ganapati Temple.
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| Pillars of Pataleshwar cave |
The Rich History of Pataleshwar Cave Temple
1. The Construction and Global Context
The Rashtrakuta Era: The Pataleshwar Caves were carved out of solid rock during the 8th century CE under the patronage of the powerful Rashtrakuta dynasty.
Historical Contemporaries: These caves belong to the same grand era of rock-cut architecture as the world-famous Elephanta (Gharapuri) Caves in Mumbai and the Ellora (Verul) Caves in Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar.
The construction of the Pataleshwar Cave was abruptly halted, leaving it forever incomplete. Historians and archaeologists point to two main theories for this mystery:
Structural Flaws: The ancient artisans may have hit a massive hidden crack or fault line in the basalt rock layout, making further drilling unsafe.
Political Instability: The work might have stopped suddenly due to sudden political changes or military shifts during the Rashtrakuta rule.
Because the work was abandoned early, the inner pillars and walls lack the intricate, fine carvings and detailed divine statues found in other completed caves across Maharashtra.
3. Key Architectural Features and the Origin of Its NameMonolithic Underground Design: The entire temple complex is carved directly downward into a single, massive block of tough basalt rock, sitting completely below the natural ground level.
The Sanctum Sanctorum: The heart of the main cave houses a beautiful, active shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, featuring a magnificent Shivalinga. As you explore the outer courtyard, you can also spot carvings of Lord Vishnu, Goddess Lakshmi, and Shiva-Parvati near the entrance gates.
Meaning of the Name: Because the entire structure is uniquely carved deep below the road level metaphorically entering the underworld—it was named Pataleshwar (meaning Lord of the Underworld, an ancient title for Lord Mahadev).
Because the Pataleshwar Caves sit quietly below the city's street level, they act as a natural acoustic buffer. The moment you step down into the stone courtyard, the loud, chaotic traffic noise of Jangli Maharaj Road (JM Road) completely fades away. It is replaced by a deep, refreshing coolness and absolute stillness.
The atmosphere here is so incredibly calm that we even saw several local students sitting quietly on the stone steps, using the peace of the caves to study and read. If you are looking to experience ancient Indian history and absolute quiet right in the bustling heart of central Pune, Pataleshwar is a must-visit hidden gem. 👉 Go to the top of the page
Trishunda Ganapati Temple
We navigated our way to our next stop using Google Maps, but when we first arrived at the location, the temple was completely nowhere to be seen! After circling back and checking our navigation closely, we finally managed to spot it.
Because the Shri Trishundya Ganapati Temple lacks a traditional towering temple spire (Shikhara) and is closely hemmed in by tall, modern concrete residential buildings, it is virtually invisible from the main road. It feels exactly as if this centuries-old structure is purposefully hiding behind modern Pune to safeguard its secrets.
The History and Creation of the Temple
This magnificent stone temple is built upon a grand, elevated stone platform known as an Adhisthana (or Peeth). We walked up the short flight of stairs to enter the main sacred premises. The historical foundation of this lesser-known monument is incredibly fascinating:
Construction Period: The temple was constructed between 1754 and 1770 AD (Shak 1676 to 1692)
during the height of the Peshwa era. It took the ancient stone masons about 16 years of continuous, meticulous work to complete the entire structure.
The Builder: It was built by a wealthy merchant named Bhimgir Ji Gosavi, a weaver originally from Indore in the Malwa region and a highly respected ascetic of the Dashnami Gosavi sect.
Unique Architectural Style: Because of the builder's roots and the eras of craftsmen involved, the temple's design beautifully reflects a rare architectural blend of Rajasthani, Malwa, and Southern Indian cultural styles.
Intricate Outer Carvings and the Iconic Entrance Gate
The incredibly detailed stone carvings decorating the outer walls are eye-catching from the very first moment you look at them. Just like many ancient Indian temples, a protective Kirtimukh (a fierce guardian monster face) is beautifully carved right on the entrance threshold.
The main doorway itself is a masterclass in religious iconography:
The Central Ganesha Idol: Right in the middle of the main door lintel, a delicate and beautiful idol of Lord Ganesha is seated with his trunk turned to the right (Siddhivinayak style). A tiny, perfectly neat stone umbrella is carved directly over his head, and a sacred Ganesh Yantra is cleanly inscribed at the base.
Divine Sculptures: Layered directly above the central Ganesha idol is a beautiful stone carving of Gajalakshmi (Goddess Lakshmi flanked by elephants), and directly above her sits a stunning, serene depiction of Sheshashayi Vishnu (Lord Vishnu resting on the cosmic serpent).
The Unique Gatekeepers (Dwarapalas): Standing guard on either side of the entrance are the traditional celestial guards, Jai and Vijay. What makes this temple incredibly unique is that on the right-hand side, a beautiful idol of Lord Vitthal of Pandharpur is carved, while on the left side, an idol of Shri Krishna stands guard.
The Mythological Sharabha: Crowning the top of both gatekeepers are striking sculptures of a Sharabha a mythical, powerful beast featuring an elephant's trunk and face instantly drawing your eyes upward.
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| Goddess Lakshmi and other sculptures at the main gate of the temple |
As we examined the temple entrance, we noticed something highly unusual on both sides of the main doorway: detailed stone carvings of British soldiers and a rhinoceros. At first glance, it was hard to understand why these modern, non-traditional figures were featured on the walls of an ancient Hindu temple. However, seeing this unique artwork made one thing instantly clear—this temple was built right during the transition period of the late Peshwa era, just as British colonial rule was tightening its grip on India.
The Battle of Plassey Symbolism
When we researched the history of the Trishundya Ganapati Temple in more depth later on, we uncovered a fascinating piece of political history hidden right in the stone.
The carving actually serves as a silent, artistic commentary on the political climate of the 18th century:
The Tamed Rhinoceros: The sculpture depicts a British soldier holding a rhinoceros securely bound by a heavy chain.
The Historic Link: Historians believe this specific image symbolizes the British East India Company's decisive victory in the historic Battle of Plassey (1757), which took place in Bengal a region naturally famous for its one-horned rhinos.
Beyond this fascinating political carving, the upper sections of the temple walls are wrapped in a rich tapestry of traditional spiritual art. As you look upward, you can clearly spot:
Intricate carvings of a Yaksha (a mythical nature spirit) carrying a heavy structural load on its shoulders.
Sculptures depicting a seated Gosavi (an ascetic monk or saint) engaged in meditation.
Beautifully preserved panels showing scenes from the Dashavatara (the ten divine incarnations of Lord Vishnu).
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| Plassey Battle Sculpture |
After admiring the intricate artwork on the outer walls, we stepped into the main hall of the temple. The first thing that will make you stop and look up is the unique, stunning roof construction.
The stone ceiling is carved into a magnificent series of geometric squares that look exactly like the textured skin of a pineapple. In professional architecture, this is known as a cassette pattern (or a coffered ceiling). It stands as a mind-blowing example of the engineering precision and artistic skills possessed by 18th-century stone masons.
The Rare Tantric Shakti-Ganesha Idol at the Sanctum Entrance
As we approached the entrance of the Garbhagriha (the inner sanctum sanctorum), we encountered an incredibly rare and sacred idol of Lord Ganesha.
What makes this specific Ganesha deity extraordinary is its iconography:
The Divine Union: It is a Shakti-Ganesha idol, where a Goddess (representing divine energy or Shakti) is depicted sitting gracefully on Lord Ganesha’s lap.
The Tantric Link: This rare configuration is deeply rooted in ancient Tantric worship and belongs to the historic Ganapatya sect, which revered Lord Ganesha as the supreme, ultimate deity of the universe.
The Antarala and the Unique Shiva-Ganga-Parvati Carving
Next, we stepped into the Antarala the sacred, narrow transitional space that connects the main public hall (Mandapa) with the inner sanctum.
While it is common to find a small carving of Lord Ganesha on the main doorframe of a sanctum, this temple features a completely unique sculpture mounted directly above the Ganesha lintel:
Lord Shiva and His Consorts: The carving depicts a rare form of Lord Shiva seated majestically with both of his divine consorts simultaneously.
The Placement: Goddess Ganga is shown seated peacefully on Shiva's right lap, while Goddess Parvati sits on his left lap. Seeing both goddesses depicted together on a single Shiva idol is an incredibly rare find in Indian temple art. 👉 Go to the top of the page
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| The inside of the temple roof |
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| Sculptures on the door leading to Antaral |
Historical inscriptions at the entrance of the sanctum sanctorum
There are three very important inscriptions carved on the top of the main sculpture of the sanctum sanctorum. These inscriptions are the largest historical document of this temple:
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| Inscription on the door of the sanctum sanctorum |
First Inscription - Sanskrit (Devanagari)
पुण्यनगरी पुरी || श्री गणेशाय नमः || श्री || || सरस्वत्यै नमः || श्री गुरु || || दक्षिणामूर्तये नमः || स || || वत् १८०१ तथा नृपशाली || || वाहन शके १६à¥à¥¬ à¤ावाना || || म संवत्सरे मार्गशीर्ष शुक्ल || || सौम्यवासरे शुà¤à¤µेला || || यां अस्य स्थाने श्रीमहका || || ल रामेश्वर प्रतिष्ठितं सु || || तिष्ठितमंस्तु || श्री देवदत्त || || इह स्छान शुà¤ं à¤à¤µà¤¤ु श्री रस्तु ||
Summary: The first holy city of the article is Puri i.e. Pune city. Also, the article pays homage to Ganapati, Saraswati, Shri Guru and Dakshinamurti. Samvat 1801 Shalivahan Shake 1676 Bhavanam Samvatsar It is written in the article that Shri Devadatta established Shri Mahakal Rameshwara on Soumyawar (Wednesday) in the month of Margashirsha. The northern Vikram Samvat is not given in the inscriptions in Maharashtra. This is an important article in which Vikram Samvat is mentioned in Maharashtra.
The second inscription - Sanskrit (Devanagari)
|| श्री गुरुदेव || || दत्त || || श्री गणेशाय नमः महेशा || || न्नापरो देवो महिम्नो नाप || || रा स्तुति: || अघोरान्नापरो || मंत्रो नास्ति तत्वं गुरो: परं || || जयति मंगला | काली à¤à¤¦्र || काली कपालिनी || दुर्गा || क्षमा शिव धात्री स्वाहा || स्वधा नमोस्तु ते || सर्व मंग || ल मांगल्ये शिवे सर्वार्थसा || धके || शरण्ये त्र्यंबके गौ || री नारायणी नमोस्तु ते || || यत्र योगेश्वर: कृत्सनो यत्र पा || र्थो धनुर्धर: || तत्र श्रीर्विजयो || à¤ूतिर्ध्रुवा नीतिर्मतिर्मम ||
Summary: Although the time is not inscribed in this article, it seems that this article should have been inscribed along with the first article. At the beginning of the article, Gurudev Dutt and Ganapati are worshipped. This article praises Shankar and Kali. At the end, Yatra Yogeshwar is given as a verse from the Gita.
Third inscription - Persian (Uthavache letter)
ई मकान गुरुदेवदत्त फुकरा फी तारीख हफ्तुम शहर जूकअद रोज चहार शम्बेह सनह ११६ॠतअ्मीर नमूदे शुद
Summary: This house of Fakir Gurudev was completed on 7th Mahe Zilqad Hijri 1167. This inscription is a relief and the article mentions the completion of the construction of the temple. This article is important as a Persian inscription in a Hindu temple. 👉 Go to the top of the page
The Majestic Form of Trishunda Ganesha
The moment I finally stepped inside the quiet, dim inner sanctum (Garbhagriha), I was completely awestruck by the majestic form of the Ganesha idol standing directly before me.
True to its historic name, this rare idol features three distinct trunks (Trishunda). It is an absolutely incredible sight to behold. This beautifully sculpted deity is a masterpiece of ancient Indian art, and you will likely not find a similar, highly unique three-trunked Ganesha idol anywhere else in the entire world.
Decoding the Sacred Details of the Black Stone Idol
Carved entirely out of a single block of polished black basalt stone, this magnificent Ganesha idol uniquely sits atop a peacock (Mayura) as his divine vehicle, rather than his traditional mouse.
The three trunks are beautifully sculpted to perform three distinct actions:
The Right Trunk: Curves gracefully toward the right hand, holding a bowl filled with sweet laddus.
The Middle Trunk: Rests peacefully across his royal stomach.
The Left Trunk: Curves gently upward, touching the chin of the Goddess Shakti seated on his lap.
The Hidden Background Carving and Pradakshina
Adding to the spiritual depth of the main shrine, the stone wall directly behind Bappa's idol features a highly detailed, stunning relief carving of Sheshashayi Vishnu (Lord Vishnu reclining on the cosmic serpent). Right over this carving, a sacred Ganesh Yantra is meticulously inscribed into the rock.
After taking a heartfelt, deeply peaceful darshan of Bappa and soaking in the immense spiritual energy of the room, I quietly exited through the door on the left-hand side to perform the sacred circumambulation (Pradakshina) around the outer path of the temple complex.
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| Trishunda Ganesha idol |
Navigating the Outer Pradakshina Path
The main hall of the Trishundya Ganapati Temple features two side doors that open outward, leading directly to the outer circumambulation (Pradakshina) path. As you walk around the exterior of the temple, you will encounter three major, spectacular stone sculptures carved into the deity chambers (Devakoshtas) on the three outer walls.
Each wall holds a profound spiritual story carved in stone:
1. Lord Nataraja (South Wall)
On the southern wall, you will find a beautiful sculpture of Lord Shiva in his divine cosmic dance form as Nataraja. Although it is relatively small in size, the craftsmanship is so delicate that the dancing deity looks incredibly graceful, fluid, and alive.
2. Harihara (North Wall)
The northern wall features a striking sculpture of Harihara the combined, half-and-half form of Lord Shiva (Hara) and Lord Vishnu (Hari). In ancient India, this specific composite deity was widely worshipped to heal historical rivalries between the Shaivite and Vaishnavite sects, serving as a powerful symbol of social unity and religious harmony.
3. Lingodbhava Shiva: The Legend of the Infinite Pillar (West Wall)
The most mysterious and detailed artwork is carved on the western wall. This sculpture visualizes a famous story from the Shiva Purana about the absolute greatness of Lord Shiva.
According to the ancient legend, A massive disagreement arose between Lord Brahma (the creator) and Lord Vishnu (the preserver) over who was the supreme deity. To humble them, Lord Shiva manifested between them as a colossal, endless pillar of cosmic fire (Anadi Linga) and challenged them to find its origin and its end. Lord Brahma took the form of a swan (Hamsa) and flew upward to seek the top, while Lord Vishnu took the form of a boar (Varaha) and dug deep into the earth to find the base. Lord Vishnu dug for ages but honestly returned to admit that the bottom could not be found. However, Lord Brahma lied, claiming he had reached the top. Angered by Brahma's deception, Shiva burst forth from the center of the pillar, blessed Vishnu for his honesty, and cursed Brahma, declaring that he would never be worshipped by devotees across India.
If you look closely at this incredible western wall carving, you can see the deep structural details left by the ancient masons. The upper section of the Shivalinga features a beautifully carved flying swan, while the lower base shows the burrowing boar surrounded by the protective coils of Sheshnag (the cosmic serpent). 👉 Go to the top of the pageThe Secret Underground Basement: A Hidden Monastic Cellar for Gosavi Ascetics
The Trishundya Ganapati Temple is a truly unique marvel of historic Maharashtrian architecture. While the ground level functions beautifully as a public house of worship dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the area directly beneath it tells a completely different story.
In reality, the underground level was meticulously designed as a secret monastery (Matha) for the ascetics of the Dashnami Gosavi sect. Finding a historic site designed with a traditional temple on top and a hidden monastic sanctuary directly underneath is a rare architectural phenomenon that you won't see anywhere else in the region.
The Secret Underground Passage and the Natural Spring
Inside the main assembly hall (Mandapa), a set of stone steps leads directly down into the dark basement. Historically, this subterranean area contained a secret underground escape tunnel that connected the temple directly to the historic Nagzari stream and nearby water wells.
Today, the tunnel has been completely walled off and sealed by authorities for public safety. However, a fascinating mystery remains: even though the exit routes are closed, this underground cellar is continuously filled with fresh water coming from a mysterious, unidentified natural underground spring.
The Annual Guru Purnima Opening
Because the basement is consistently flooded, it remains completely locked and closed to the general public throughout the year. However, there is one special exception:
Every year on the auspicious day of Guru Purnima, the water is carefully pumped out, and the secret cellar is opened to everyone for free. On this day, huge crowds of local Punekars gather to descend into the basement and pay homage to the historic Gosavi Gurus. Historians believe that centuries ago, the Gosavi ascetics used the absolute silence of this flooded cellar to secretly practice advanced Hatha Yoga and deep meditation.After exploring these fascinating architectural mysteries and finishing our circumambulation, we stepped back out into the sunlit courtyard. We went back inside the main shrine to take one last heartfelt darshan of Trishunda Bappa.
Locking the incredible memories of this hidden stone monument deep in our minds, we walked back to our vehicle. Our final morning journey through Pune's heritage lanes now continued toward our next spiritual stop: the ancient Someshwar Temple, located just a short distance away.
My opinion
To be completely clear, I am not a professional historian or an academic expert in ancient architecture. However, as an active trekking explorer and a passionate history buff, I have closely observed dozens of heritage structures across Maharashtra.
According to some local claims, this temple was originally built to house a Shivalinga (Lord Shiva). However, if that were true, the building would have to follow the fundamental, non-negotiable rules of traditional Hindu Shiva temple architecture. In every ancient Shiva temple I have explored, three key structural features are always present:
The Jalabhishek Route: A dedicated, sacred drainage channel designed to carry the holy water used during ritual ablutions (Abhishekam) away from the central Shivapindi.
The Pranala and Udakkund: On the temple’s exterior wall (typically facing North), you will always find a Pranala a neatly carved stone spout that lets the holy water exit the building. Directly underneath this spout sits an Udakkund, a stone water tank built to collect the sacred drainage.
The Nandi Mandapa: A dedicated pavilion housing an idol of Nandi (the sacred bull) positioned outside the main entrance, facing the deity. Looking at Nandi first is considered mandatory before taking darshan of Lord Shiva.
The Main Contradiction
Here is the catch: not a single one of these three essential architectural symbols can be found anywhere at the Trishundya Ganapati Temple. There is no drainage spout on the walls, no water tank below, and absolutely no trace of a Nandi pavilion outside. Because these core structural elements are entirely missing, it is highly unlikely that this structure was ever designed to be a Shiva temple.
A Fascinating Architectural Paradox at (Sakhargad)
Interestingly, I witnessed a completely opposite architectural paradox while exploring (Sakhargad) in the Satara district.
In that particular temple on the fort, the exterior structure perfectly obeys the rules of Lord Shiva: a beautiful Nandi sits outside, a Pranala channel is carved into the stone wall, and a water tank rests safely below. Yet, when you step inside the main hall, there is no Shivalinga! Instead, the central sanctum proudly houses the idol of a Hindu Goddess.
The Ultimate Symbol of Unified Hindu Sects
Based on my personal observations and study of the site, the Trishundya Ganapati Temple in Somwar Peth was not built for a single, isolated deity. Instead, it was brilliantly designed as a grand, unified symbol connecting all the major sects of Hinduism.
Two powerful historical and theological arguments support this design:
Argument 1: The Trimurti and Datta Guru Connection
As explicitly carved into the temple’s historic Persian inscriptions, this sacred site is directly associated with the Datta Sampradaya (the text beautifully refers to the space as "the house of Gurudev Datta").
Following this specific context, just as Lord Dattatreya represents the unified divine form of the Trimurti Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the preserver), and Mahesh/Shiva (the destroyer) I strongly believe that the three distinct trunks of this Ganesha idol are deliberate, physical symbols representing Brahma, Vishnu, and Mahesh.
Argument 2: Peshwa Patronage and the Rise of the Ganapatya Sect
This grand stone temple was constructed at the absolute height of the Peshwa Period. Looking closely at the history of the Maratha Empire, the Peshwa rulers were legendary devotees of Lord Ganesha. Under their royal patronage, Ganesha worship and the Ganapatya sect achieved their ultimate golden age in Pune and the surrounding territories.
In Summary
Nageshwar Temple
We made our way through the narrow heritage lanes of Somwar Peth to visit the legendary Nageshwar Temple, navigating easily with the help of Google Maps.
While the core structure of this ancient shrine is built in a classical rock-cut stone style, the grand congregation hall standing directly in front of it is a spectacular wooden masterpiece that instantly reminds you of a royal Peshwa-era palace.
Just as we stepped inside the complex, an elderly local gentleman approached the shrine and began playing a traditional musical instrument. The deep, mesmerizing notes and the rhythmic cadence he maintained filled the air with melody. The sound was so profoundly soothing that we stood completely frozen in silent awe, letting the spiritual music wash over us. After playing beautifully for about five to ten minutes, the old man quietly packed up and walked away, leaving us to realize this timeless performance was likely just a quiet part of his daily spiritual routine.
Surrounding the main shrine on three sides are magnificent wooden-pillared residential wings (Wadas) dating back to the late 18th century, where extensive heritage preservation and restoration work is actively underway.
As you explore the temple grounds, several distinct architectural and religious features stand out:
The Stone Nandi and Ritual Vessel: Inside the historic public assembly hall (Sabha Mandapa), a beautifully preserved ancient stone Nandi (the sacred bull) sits facing the inner sanctum. Right in front of Nandi rests a large stone vessel (Kund), which was traditionally used by ancient priests to keep fresh water or loose floral offerings.
The Kartik Dev Shrine: Positioned gracefully on the right-hand side of the main temple entrance is a beautifully sculpted, dedicated idol of Lord Kartik Dev (Kartikeya).
The Ornate Deepamala: Standing tall in the outer courtyard, a grand stone lamp tower (Deepamala or Deepastambha) immediately draws your eye upward, serving as a beautiful testament to Maharashtrian temple design.
What makes the Nageshwar Mandir one of the most important heritage landmarks in Pune is its unique structural fusion. The innermost holy sanctum (Garbhagriha) dates all the way back to the 14th-century Yadava period and is constructed in the robust, mortarless Hemadpanti architectural style.
After taking a heartfelt, deeply peaceful darshan at the ancient altar of Nageshwar Mahadev, we walked back out to our vehicle and began our next transit across the city toward the iconic fortress of Kesari Wada.
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| Nageshwar Temple |
History of the temple
Relationship between Saint Dnyaneshwar and Saint Tukaram Maharaj: It is said that when Saint Dnyaneshwar Mauli and Jagadguru Saint Tukaram Maharaj came to Pune, they used to stay at this Nageshwar temple. The memories of the stay of both these saints are associated with the temple premises.
Peshwa Period Renovation: This temple underwent a major renovation during the Peshwa period in the 1730s. Although the main hall of the temple is made of stone, the grand assembly hall outside is a masterpiece of Peshwa period wood carving.
Nagatirtha (Water Tank): There was a water tank in the temple premises earlier, which was called 'Nagathirtha'. It is believed that the water in this tank had medicinal properties and the power to cure skin diseases. (Currently, this tank is covered for safety reasons). 👉 Go to the top of the page
Kesari Wada
After a thoroughly satisfying visit to the ancient Nageshwar Mahadev Temple, we hopped back onto our vehicle and made our way down the historic streets of the city. Navigating the smooth roads, we reached the legendary Kesari Wada in Narayan Peth in just 15 minutes.
This historic courtyard mansion is also widely revered across Maharashtra as Tilak Wada. For any history buff visiting Pune, this location is a sacred pilgrimage site, as it once served as the home and headquarters for one of India's greatest freedom fighters.
The moment you walk through the massive main gates of the Wada, an immense sense of patriotism and history fills the air. The very first sight that captures your attention in the central courtyard is a beautiful, serene idol of Lord Ganesha. |
| Kesari Wada |
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| Silver idol of Shri Ganesha and statue of Tilak in Kesari Wada |
After taking our blessings at the courtyard Ganesha shrine, we walked toward the main building. Right next to the entrance, we encountered an incredible piece of revolutionary history: an original, 19th-century mechanical printing press from the era of Lokmanya Tilak.
This is the very machine that was used to print the fierce nationalistic articles of the Kesari (Marathi) and The Mahratta (English) newspapers. Even though this printing press is well over a century old, it has been preserved in phenomenal condition. Looking at its robust cast-iron gears and rollers, you get the distinct feeling that this legendary machine could easily print a revolutionary poster even today!
Fascinated by the printing machinery, we moved ahead and climbed the stairs to the first floor. We respectfully took off our shoes at the entrance and stepped into the main Lokmanya Tilak Museum.
Inside, we were treated to an up-close look at an invaluable collection of historical artifacts and personal items belonging to the freedom fighter, including:
Original Handwritten Letters: Rare correspondence penned by Tilak addressing fellow freedom fighters and British administrative officials.
Personal Belongings: The actual writing desks, stationary, spectacles, and traditional clothing (Pugree and Uparne) used by him during his historic campaigns.
The Mandalay Jail Replica: A detailed, moving model of the small prison cell in Myanmar where Tilak was exiled for six years and where he wrote his famous commentary, the Gita Rahasya.
The historical exhibits are so immersive and beautifully curated that we completely lost track of time. We spent over an hour thoroughly reading the documents and soaking in the history before we finally realized how quickly the afternoon had slipped by.
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| Birth Horoscope of Balgangadhar Lokmanya Tilak |
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| Genealogy of Balgangadhar Lokmanya Tilak |
Standing in front of these rare personal artifacts, you are instantly transported straight into the intense, revolutionary era of the Indian freedom struggle. For a few profound moments, the modern hustle of the 21st century completely fades away, leaving you immersed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Instead of trying to describe every single historic object, document, and medal on display in these galleries, I highly recommend that you visit this heritage site and experience this powerful wave of patriotism for yourself.
The moment we finally stepped back out through the massive gates of Kesari Wada, it felt like waking up from a dream suddenly dropping from the pre-independence era straight back into the bustling, modern traffic of present-day Pune.
With our minds filled with the inspiring legacy of Lokmanya Tilak, we kicked off our scooter and turned our march toward our next major destination of Day 4: the legendary Peshwa Daftar (the historic Pune Archives), where our ancestral research was about to begin. 👉 Go to the top of the page |
| Replica of Lokmanya Tilak's office |
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| When and by whom was Tilak given the title of Lokmanya? |
Peshwa Daftar (Pune Archives)
Following our memorable spiritual stop at the Nageshwar Temple, we took a quick 15-minute ride to reach the legendary Peshwa Daftar (the official Pune Archives), located right opposite the Council Hall.
Because this massive heritage depository houses over four crore historic documents, walking in as a first-time researcher can be quite overwhelming. When we first arrived, we had no idea which department or counter to approach. We tried calling a personal contact who knew the inside layout, but unfortunately, our calls went unanswered. After standing outside the grand stone gates for a few minutes to clear our heads, we decided to simply walk into the main building and inquire directly.
We made our way up to the first floor, where a helpful female employee (Tai) welcomed us. She politely recorded our details in the visitor's registration ledger and directed us to the records ward right across the hallway.
Once inside the records ward, we officially inquired about accessing our family's old citizenship and ancestral land records from the Konkan region. That is when we hit our first major roadblock.
The archivist informed us that because Kankavali was historically managed under a different institutional setup, the ancient administrative documents for Kankavali Taluka were not stored in this specific section. Realizing there might be a mix-up, I immediately called my father to double-check our exact ancestral roots. He cleared up the confusion right away: our native family village does not fall under Kankavali, but actually belongs to the Malvan Taluka!
With our correct taluka finally confirmed, I quickly obtained and filled out the official archival application form. However, a final bureaucratic twist caught us off guard—the application required a mandatory ₹5 court fee stamp to be legally processed.
Usually, a licensed stamp vendor sits right outside the Peshwa office premises, but they are typically only available until 11:00 AM. Since we had arrived later in the day, the vendor had already packed up and left. We frantically searched the surrounding streets, commercial shops, and nearby offices looking for a vendor selling court tickets, but our search yielded absolutely nothing.
With the afternoon cutting short and no stamps available, we had no choice but to leave our genealogical research unfinished for the day. We walked back to our vehicle and started our journey back toward Kothrud to have our lunch, keeping our heads high for the next attempt.👉 Go to the top of the pagePune - Mumbai Travel
When we arrived back at the house in Kothrud, I quickly freshened up. Fortunately, my travel bags were already packed and sitting by the door. For our final farewell lunch, my grandmother (Aji) had lovingly prepared an incredible traditional feast. Today’s special menu was piping hot, authentic Dal-Bati.
After eating our fill of that delicious meal and feeling completely content, we rested for a brief moment. I then sought the heartfelt blessings of Aji and my uncles before setting off on my return journey back home to Mumbai. My close friend and trekking partner, Vinayak, was going to stay back in Pune for a few more days to finish up some personal work. To head back home, I had already booked a ticket on the 3:27 PM Deccan Express from Pune Railway Station.
As we walked out the door, a spontaneous thought crossed my mind. Since we had to pass near the center of the city anyway, I realized I could make one final, lightning-fast attempt to complete my unfinished work at the Peshwa Daftar (Pune Archives).
We rode down to the administrative building, and by an absolute stroke of luck, the licensed court fee stamp vendor was sitting right outside the main gates! I immediately purchased the mandatory ₹5 court fee stamp from him, firmly pasted it onto my genealogical research application form, and ran up the stairs to submit it to the records department.
The moment the archivist accepted the form, we rushed back down the steps, hopped onto the scooter, and dashed toward Pune Railway Station. The city traffic was tight, and by the time we pulled up to the station entrance, there were a mere 6 minutes left before the train's scheduled departure!
I grabbed my luggage, yelled a quick goodbye to Vinayak, and sprinted through the platform gates at the absolute last second. Just as my feet cleared the footboard and I grabbed the handrail of the moving carriage, the Deccan Express began chugging out of the station!
After a smooth, scenic journey across the Western Ghats, the train pulled into the city, and I arrived safely at my home in Mumbai at around 8:30 PM. This incredible Pune tour beautifully enriched with deep historical discoveries, family roots, and a classic last-minute transit rush is an adventure that I will fondly remember forever. 👉 Go to the top of the pageA Special Note of Gratitude:
This unforgettable heritage tour of Pune would never have been possible without the incredible support of my dear friend and trekking partner, Vinayak Kale. I owe a massive thank you to Vinayak for meticulously planning our entire daily sightseeing itinerary, and more importantly, for skillfully driving us around on his scooter through Pune’s busiest traffic lanes all day long without breaking a sweat. I also want to express my deepest gratitude to Vinayak’s maternal uncle (Mama) and his wonderful family in Kothrud. They warmly opened their beautiful home to us, treated us like their own, and kept us energized with delicious, authentic home-cooked meals like amazing dal-bati, makke ki roti and sarso ka saag, etc. Their incredible hospitality made this entire journey feel less like a tourist trip and more like a warm homecoming.
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