Bus Timings: State transport (ST) buses run between Satara and Sajjangad every hour from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Plan your train arrivals accordingly to avoid paying extra for private transport!
Arrival and Accommodation: We began our climb at 6:30 PM as dusk was settling in. The ascent was lined with various idols of Lord Hanuman. Upon reaching the Ganesh Darwaza (Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj entrance) we bowed in respect, took some photos, and entered. Just a few steps ahead at the Samarth Pravesh gate, we photographed an ancient inscription before moving on. It took us only 15 minutes to reach the fort's summit, Gadamatha. A short walk from there brought us to our accommodation. The fort offers two devotee residences (Bhakti Nivas): Shri Sridhar Swamy’s residence comes first, followed by Shri Ramdas Swamy’s residence situated near the Ram Mandir. We checked in at Shri Sridhar Swamy's Bhakti Nivas, dropped our bags in our second-floor room, and rested.
Evening Aartis and Temple Visits: At 7:30 PM, we went down to attend the Shej Aarti. Our temple visits followed a specific sequence: we began at Sridhar Swamy's temple, moved to the Das Maruti temple opposite it, visited the Sri Ram temple, and finished at Ramdas Swamy's samadhi.
Sightseeing and Dinner: We arrived back at the Bhakti Nivas around 8:30 PM and spent time photographing the large nearby Pushkarni (stepwell). Our attention was also drawn to a fascinating Veergal (hero stone) covered in shendur (vermilion), which we photographed before getting in line for dinner. Dinner, or Mahaprasad, is served strictly at 9:00 PM; latecomers will unfortunately miss it. After eating, we went straight to sleep to prepare for the 4:30 AM Kakad Aarti.
Review of the Facilities: The amenities at the Bhakti Nivas were excellent for the setting. The management provides mattresses, pillows, and clean bedsheets, along with well-kept communal washrooms. Impressively, all of these facilities are provided free of charge to devotees.
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1. Inscriptions at Sajjangad, 2. Veergal (hero-stone), 3. Das Maruti, 4. Kalyan Udi Monument |
Day Two: Morning Aarti and a Golden Sunrise
Despite setting a 4:00 AM alarm, the lingering fatigue from the previous day's journey kept me fast asleep. However, Vinayak—who usually enjoys sleeping in woke up early on his own. Driven by his deep devotion, he was determined to attend Swami's Kakad Aarti. I eventually woke up at my own pace, refreshed myself with a hot bath, and made my way to the Lord Shri Ram temple for the Aarti. Surprisingly, despite it being January, the air on the fort lacked the expected winter chill. The temple houses magnificent idols of Lord Sri Rama, Sita Maa, and Sri Lakshmana, which carry profound historical significance.
These were originally gifted to Sri Ramdas Swamy by Venkoji Raje of Thanjavur. According to fascinating local lore, these unique idols were intricately carved by a blind craftsman, which is why they do not possess sculpted eyes. Following the main temple Aarti, we attended the subsequent Aarti in the basement near Swami's Samadhi, paying our respects before visiting the nearby Swami Bhaga Sangrahalaya. After admiring the preserved artifacts in the museum, we headed to the Bhakta Niwas by 6:00 AM for our morning tea.
Traveler’s Note: The administration at Bhakta Niwas strictly enforces their schedule. Visitors must ensure they arrive for tea, breakfast, and all meals within the allotted time windows to be served.
Re-energized by the tea, we walked eastward toward the
Angai Devi temple to witness the sunrise. After seeking blessings from the Goddess, we found a vantage point by the watchtower, joining a gathering of fellow devotees eagerly waiting for the dawn. Watching the brilliant sun cast vibrant saffron hues across the sky was a truly mesmerizing experience. We finally spotted the sun cresting the horizon at 7:13 AM. After capturing a few photographs of the stunning landscape, we set off to explore the remaining fortifications and architectural structures.
Safety Note: Please remain vigilant around the Angai Devi temple and the nearby tower, as the area is frequented by monkeys. Ensure your mobile phones and cameras are held securely. Additionally, avoid standing too close to the edges of the ramparts; a sudden approach by a monkey could startle you and lead to a dangerous fall.
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1. Chunyacha Ghana (Lime Grinder/Crusher) 2. Sunrise seen from Sajjangad 3. Urmodi Dam, 4. Thoseghar Ghat |
Turning back from the Angai Devi temple, our next stop was the traditional lime grinding mill (Chuna Ghana). While the structure is clearly visible, there is unfortunately no signage detailing its history or where the processed lime was utilized on the fort. Just to the left of this site, we explored an abandoned stone building. Although I am not an architectural expert, the arches and design strongly
suggest an Islamic style, potentially a mosque. This aligns well with the fort's history: Sajjangad was captured by the Mughals in 1700 AD, and historical records document that Emperor Aurangzeb offered namaz at a mosque here following the fort's capture.
Continuing our exploration, we followed a trail behind the
Shri Ram temple that leads straight to the western edge of the fort. Standing atop the western watchtower rewards you with a breathtaking view of the picturesque ghat road winding toward Thoseghar. After surveying the surrounding landscape and paying our respects at the
Dhabyacha Maruti shrine, we made our way to the
Brahmapisa Smarak (monument). Rather than spoiling its entire backstory here, I highly recommend visiting it yourself to read its history and personally experience the deeply tranquil atmosphere that defines Sajjangad. Retracing our steps, we returned to the Bhakta Niwas by 8:00 AM. After warming up with a hot drink and breakfast, we were ready to tackle the northern side of the fort.
We initially headed east to find the path leading north toward
Ramghal. Although we couldn't locate the exact route to the cave, continuing a bit further brought us to the legendary
Kalyan Udi Smarak. This monument marks a site of incredible, fearless devotion. According to local lore, when a sudden gust of wind blew away Sri Ramdas Swami's garment, his devoted disciple, Sri Kalyan Swami, leapt directly into the steep valley to retrieve it without a second thought for his own life. While onlookers feared the worst when he didn't immediately resurface, Kalyan Swami eventually climbed back up, safely returning his Guru's belongings without a single scratch on his body!
Moving a little further past the Kalyan Udi Smarak, we were greeted by a breathtaking panoramic view from the northern edge of the fort. The sheer scale and
serene beauty of the Urmodi Dam spread out below was truly mesmerizing. Because portions of the fort's outer ramparts had collapsed over time, we responsibly resisted the temptation to venture closer to the edge, choosing instead to soak in the natural beauty from a safe vantage point. Having successfully explored the majority of the fort's historical structures, we decided it was time to begin our descent. We returned to the Bhakta Niwas, gathered our luggage, vacated our room, and handed the keys back to the administrative office.
By 9:00 AM, we were making our way down the fort. After descending a few steps, we noticed a trail branching off to the north. Hoping it might lead us to the elusive Ramghal cave, we veered off the main path to investigate. While we didn't find Ramghal, the detour led us to a peaceful temple dedicated to Sri Kalyan Swami, situated near the base of his legendary leap. Along this path, we crossed ways with a local ascetic (Baba) heading up to the fort. When we asked him for directions to Ramghal, he pointed toward the edge of the fort, advising us that the old path had completely crumbled away and was no longer safe to traverse. We then asked the Baba where our current trail led, and he informed us it descended toward Parli village.
Although we were eager to visit the ancient Bhumija-style (Hemadpanti) Shiva temple in Parli, the uncertainty of finding reliable onward transport from the village made us reconsider. Erring on the side of caution, we retraced our steps back to the main road and continued down to the vehicle stand.
With about 30 minutes to spare before the next scheduled bus, we decided not to wait at the top. Instead, we started walking down the hill, hoping to catch a bus mid-route to save time and reach our next destination, Ajinkyatara, a bit sooner. As we walked, a State Transport (ST) bus passed us heading up the fort, assuring us it would soon make its return journey down. We reached the nearby T-junction (Titha) and waited. Since no buses were approaching from the Thoseghar Ghat side, Vinayak used the downtime to call a contact provided by Mr. Kedar regarding a vehicle rental. A lady answered and quickly confirmed our booking. It felt like a direct blessing from Swami—our onward journey was secured, ensuring we could visit all our scheduled spots on time!
Shortly after, the same MSRTC bus we saw earlier made its way back down to the junction. We flagged it down and boarded for the ride into town. After getting off at the Satara bus station, we relied on Google Maps to navigate to our rental shop. "Veer Rajput Services" is conveniently located about 1.6 km from the bus station, making for an easy 20 to 30-minute walk. (
Google Maps Location: Veer Rajput Car Rental Service).
Traveler’s Note: Please keep in mind that the main gates of Sajjangad open strictly at sunrise in the morning and are securely closed in the evening immediately after sunset. Plan your arrival and descent accordingly!
Vinayak provided a photocopy of his Aadhaar card, and we easily rented a TVS Jupiter scooter for the day, leaving a deposit of Rs 1,000. Our first order of business was checking into the "Gokarna Lodge," which we had booked online in advance. The gentleman at the reception escorted us to the first floor to show us our accommodation. Unfortunately, the room was in incredibly poor condition, making us immediately regret our booking. Since we hadn't made the final payment yet, we seriously considered canceling the reservation on the spot. However, with a packed itinerary and no time to spare hunting for a new hotel, we compromised, made the payment, and decided to make do. We quickly dropped off our heavy luggage, packed only our essentials into a daypack, and set out to explore Ajinkyatara Fort.
Accommodation Tip: Based on my experience, I cannot recommend the Gokarna Lodge to fellow travelers. The photos posted online are quite deceptive. If your schedule permits, it is always better to arrive in the city, inspect hotel rooms in person, and then make your booking.
We hit the road at 11:25 AM and, guided seamlessly by Google Maps, reached the main gate of
Ajinkyatara Fort in just 15 minutes.
The approach road is well-maintained, and it is highly convenient that vehicles can be driven right up to the main entrance. After respectfully bowing to the magnificent sculptures carved into the primary gateway, we stepped inside the fort. The stone staircase leading further into the complex is so beautifully designed that it almost feels like an ascending stairway to heaven.
We took some time to admire the intricate carvings on the small shrines near the entrance before heading up to the watchtower. After taking in the views, we descended from the tower, climbed the steps leading to the main pathway, and approached the second defensive gate. Passing through it, a short walk brought us out onto the Gadamatha (the top plateau of the fort). Taking a right turn, we arrived at the
Shri Hanuman temple to seek the blessings of Lord Maruti. Just a short distance from there stood a quaint, compact (chotekhani)
Shiva temple, where we peacefully took darshan of Lord Mahadeva.
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1. Ajinkyatara Main Door, 2. Idol of Maruti,
3. South Door, 4. Idol of Mangalai Devi |
Exploring the Quiet Trails of Ajinkyatara: Just a few steps ahead, the path bifurcated. A signboard indicated that the left trail led to the Mangalai Devi Temple, while the right went toward the Saptarshi Temple. Eager to explore, we chose the right-hand path. The fort was blissfully quiet, and our chosen route seemed largely untrodden by other tourists. Walking alone through the dense tree cover carried a slight thrill of apprehension, especially with a steep valley dropping off to our right, prompting us to tread cautiously. After a short trek, a stone archway came into view, framing the peak of
the Saptarshi Temple. Following a narrow side trail to the left, we arrived at the banks of a natural, albeit dry, lake. Continuing onward, we reached the Saptarshi Temple itself. After taking darshan of the sacred Shiva Pindi inside, we exited the grounds and resumed our trek. Although I wasn’t entirely sure where the path led, its clear, well-trodden condition kept any worries at bay. Soon, the fort's ancient ruins began to emerge. Quickening our pace, we arrived at the imposing
Southern Gate (Dakshin Darwaza). We took some time to descend through the gateway and explore before climbing back up to rejoin the main trail.
Uncovering Hidden Fortifications: A little further along, we approached the Southern Bastion (Dakshin Buruj). From there, we took a left turn, actively searching for the historic ammunition and liquor depot (Daru Kothar). With an unfortunate lack of signboards, it was a bit of a treasure hunt. Vinayak astutely spotted an unassuming stone structure off the beaten path to our left. Veering off the main trail to investigate, we discovered that this was indeed the amination warehouse we were looking for. Returning to the main footpath, we observed the fort's outer ramparts, which included historical latrine structures built directly into the fortification walls. For safety reasons, we opted not to venture too close to the edge. While the ramparts appeared somewhat stable, the lack of modern conservation made them feel precarious. It is deeply disheartening to see the architectural legacy of the Maharajas suffering from contemporary administrative neglect.
Moving along, we reached the Mangalai Devi Temple. Unfortunately, the inner sanctum was closed, so we offered our prayers from the outside. Through the doorway, we could still admire the exquisite Goddess idol, beautifully carved from black stone. The temple courtyard also houses several Veergals (hero stones)—ancient steles erected to honor fallen warriors. Over time, locals have begun worshipping these memorial stones as deities, adorning them with saffron paste (shendur) and flowers.
Palaces, Mints, and a Completed Gadferi: As we walked past the Mangalai Devi Temple, a poignant detail caught my eye: a carved stone from the temple's own ancient ruins had been repurposed as a common step. One cannot help but feel that with proper archaeological excavation, the original remnants could have been recovered and the ancient structure authentically restored, rather than simply constructing the current, newer temple. Continuing our walk, we arrived at another lake. Facing the water sat a beautiful marble Nandi, though surprisingly, the accompanying Shiva Pindi was nowhere to be found. We took a left turn down an unmarked road. The severe lack of directional signage on Ajinkyatara often leaves visitors guessing their way around the vast complex.
Taking a subsequent right, we stumbled upon a large structural footprint resembling a Rajsadar (royal court) or palace. The area was bustling with workers dismantling a temporary bamboo pavilion decorated with traditional marigold garlands. When we asked about the occasion, they explained that a grand celebration for Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj's birth anniversary had taken place there just two days prior an annual tradition at the fort! Local lore also suggests these ruins belong to the palace of the valiant Chhatrapati Tarabai. However, without official informational plaques, history here is largely kept alive through word-of-mouth. Exploring behind the palace ruins, we noticed a dome-like structure, its true purpose whether a tomb or something else entirely left a mystery by the absent signage. Circling back to the main path, we finally spotted a descriptive board marking the site of the fort's royal Mint (Tanksal). Adjacent to it stood another abandoned building containing two massive, pot-shaped stone cavities sunk into the floor. These were likely used as a granary (Amberkhana), or, given their proximity to the mint, perhaps as secure vaults for storing newly minted coins. We navigated back past the palace ruins, took a right, and found ourselves back at the Hanuman temple. Our Gadferi (circumambulation of the fort) was officially complete. By 1:40 PM, we had descended through the main gates.
A Salute to Local Eco-Warriors: With no proper restaurants near the fort, we grabbed a refreshing lemon syrup drink from a local cart vendor to hold us over. What truly stood out was this vendor's brilliant initiative for environmental conservation. He charged an extra ₹10 deposit on every plastic water bottle he sold, promising to refund the money only if the tourist brought the empty bottle back down from the fort. A massive salute to this unsung hero's efforts to keep Ajinkyatara clean!
Disappointment at the Martyrs' Memorial: Our next destination was the Char Bhinti Hutatma Smarak (Martyrs' Memorial). We rode back toward Shahu Chowk along our initial route. Spotting the memorial's distinct walls perched on a hill, we parked near a large water tank, where a dedicated footpath leads up to the site. We arrived full of patriotic excitement, but unfortunately, our enthusiasm was quickly dashed by the grim reality of the site. A place built to honor the ultimate sacrifices of our freedom fighters is being severely disrespected. The memorial walls were stained red with gutkha spit, and the solemn grounds had been reduced to a casual hangout spot for truant students. It is a profound tragedy for both Maharashtra and our nation when locals and tourists alike fail to grasp the sanctity of such historical monuments. The administration desperately needs to intervene and restore the dignity of this site. Deeply disappointed, we didn't linger and promptly left for the Dholya Ganapati Temple.
Seeking Blessings at Dholya Ganapati: Taking a left from Shahu Chowk, we made our way to the Dholya Ganapati Temple located right in Satara city.
(Note: This temple is completely distinct from the famous Dholya Ganapati in Wai, with no direct historical connection between the two.) Nestled amidst dense foliage, the temple's peak was entirely obscured from the main road, but friendly locals guided us to the entrance. The idol of Lord Ganesha here is exceptionally beautiful and distinct. Carved directly into a massive, monolithic rock, the deity has an unusually broad and imposing form—which is precisely how the temple earned the name "Dholya" (meaning massive or plump) Ganapati. After seeking the blessings of Ganaraya, we hit the road again, setting our sights on the ancient Pateshwar Temple.
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| 1. Char Bhinti Hutatma Smarak, 2. Dholya Ganapati - Satar city |
By 2:30 PM, our hunger was catching up with us. We decided to grab lunch in Degaon before heading to the
Pateshwar temple to explore its unique variety of Shivlings. Relying on Google Maps, we set off, entirely unaware of the hurdles ahead. Upon reaching the outskirts of Degaon, we found the main route to Pateshwar blocked by excavation work near the welcome arch. Pressed for time, we took a left turn to search for an alternative road. Locals informed us that we couldn't proceed that way due to ongoing construction. Having traveled so far to see the revered Shivlings of Pateshwar, turning back simply wasn't an option. While looking for a detour on our maps, we met a local woman and a young boy who pointed out a trail. They warned us that the road was in poor condition, but blinded by excitement, we decided to take the risk. Although the path was unpaved, it was wide enough for a vehicle, and the sight of existing tire tracks gave us the confidence to proceed. Further down, we encountered a large muddy ditch in the middle of the road. While not incredibly deep, driving through it carried a real risk of getting stuck or rolling the vehicle. With no materials around to build a makeshift bridge, Vinayak utilized his driving skills to expertly navigate us across the obstacle.
We had driven about two to two-and-a-half kilometers along this uncharted route, navigating solely by our GPS coordinates relative to Pateshwar. Soon, the path bifurcated. Trusting Google Maps, which indicated Pateshwar was to our right, I suggested we take the right-hand trail. However, large boulders made driving increasingly difficult. I stepped out to scout ahead, only to find the path completely blocked; it dwindled into a narrow foot trail impossible for our vehicle. When I walked back and suggested we retreat, Vinayak was understandably reluctant. Having come this far, the thought of leaving without seeing the temple felt unacceptable. He parked in the woods and started walking ahead to explore. Knowing the risks of leaving a vehicle unattended in unfamiliar forest territory without a clear trail, I knew we had no choice but to turn back. I managed to maneuver the vehicle around the boulders, and we attempted the left-hand path, but it led to another dead end. While I searched for a viable route on foot, Vinayak ended up driving aimlessly through an empty agricultural field. Realizing it was improper to drive through private farmland, I signaled him to stop and turn around. On our way out, we encountered two farmers. Their surprised reaction confirmed we were entirely off course. "Where did you come from?" one asked. "This road doesn't lead to Pateshwar. Go back to the leveled ground and ask the locals there; they will guide you." Taking his advice, we returned to the clearing. We asked a woman working in the fields for directions. She pointed to a path on the left but warned that it was only accessible on foot. Pointing toward a saffron flag fluttering on a distant peak, she revealed that the Pateshwar temple was situated at the very top of the hill. We were stunned. Operating on incomplete information, we had mistakenly assumed the temple was located down in the village.
Normally pragmatic, Vinayak was driven by sheer determination today. He suggested we leave the vehicle behind and hike up, arguing that with our trekking experience, it wouldn't be a difficult climb. I had to remind him of the practicalities: we simply hadn't come prepared for a trek. We were low on water, hadn't eaten lunch, and had no provisions in our bags. Furthermore, navigating an unfamiliar forest trail at 3:00 PM meant a one-to-two-hour ascent. By the time we reached the top, it would be close to 5:00 PM, and the early winter sunset would leave us descending in the dark, posing a severe risk of losing our way. Recognizing the logic, he reluctantly agreed, and we dejectedly headed back. Upon returning to the original roadblock in the village, we suddenly decided to give it one last try. We approached some children playing nearby, and they directed us through a cluster of single-story row houses. "Go straight and take a right from this lane, and you'll hit the main road to Pateshwar," they instructed. Learning from our previous detour, I asked Vinayak to wait. I wasn't going to proceed without confirming the road conditions first. I scouted ahead on foot, verified the route with a local resident, and then signaled Vinayak to follow. We navigated the narrow dirt path through the houses and finally emerged onto the main asphalt road leading to Pateshwar. Our joy knew no bounds; it felt as though our persistence was finally rewarded. Although the off-road struggle cost us a valuable hour leaving us with less time to explore the temple itself—the relief of finally finding the right path was immense.
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1. Vainayaki, 2. Seshashahi Vishnu,
3. Pateshwar Shivling, 4. Mahishasurmardini |
We navigated the winding ghat road until we reached the main entrance of Pateshwar, but our journey was far from over.
Traveler's Tip: The ghat road leading to Pateshwar is unpaved, so if you are driving, proceed with caution and avoid traveling this route after dark. Additionally, be prepared for a hike visitors must walk 1.5 to 2 kilometers through the forest from the main gate to reach the temple itself.
Assuming we were close to our destination, we parked the vehicle and continued on foot. A short distance later, we encountered a flight of stairs. As we ascended, a beautifully carved rock idol of Lord Ganpati greeted us on the right. After capturing a quick photograph, we hiked for another ten minutes, yet the temple remained out of sight. A quick check on Google Maps revealed we still had about a kilometer to go. With the clock striking 4:00 PM and the temple gates scheduled to close at 5:00 PM, we quickened our pace. By 4:10 PM, we reached a stunning pushkarni (stepwell). The water was adorned with blooming lotuses, adding a profound serenity to the landscape. Adjacent to it lies the
Sadguru Sri Govindananda Math, and the pathway alongside this mutt leads directly to the Pateshwar Temple.
Taking a right turn, we began climbing a series of stone steps flanked by small shrines carved directly into the enclosing walls. These miniature temples house various deities, with some featuring Shivlingas and others displaying idols of goddesses. Eventually, we reached the outer courtyard of the main temple complex, which is fortified by protective walls on all four sides. Just outside the main premises, to the left of the boundary wall, stands an impressive three-to-four-foot-tall Shivlinga. On the right, you can find idols of Lord Maruti (Hanuman) and Garuda, alongside several smaller Shivlingas. Entering the temple grounds through a beautifully carved stone doorway, we were immediately captivated by an ancient, meticulously sculpted stone Nandi. Beyond it stood the majestic Pateshwar temple itself, a striking example of ancient Bhumija-style architecture. Upon entering the inner sanctum, we finally had our peaceful darshan of Lord Shiva Shambhu. Interestingly, the idols housed within this temple feature unique characteristics that distinctly set them apart from those found in typical Shiva temples.
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1. Agnivrusha 2. Chamunda
3. Shivdand 4. Sahasrashivaling |
We were initially the only two people on the temple premises. As we were admiring the idols in the main hall of the Pateshwar temple, another couple arrived. The gentleman seemed quite anxious; navigating the secluded, dense forest with limited information had left him feeling disoriented, much like our own earlier experience. In such a remote location, help is scarce if an emergency arises. He requested that we stick together, so we joined forces to explore the adjacent cave temples as a group The Pateshwar complex is surrounded by numerous caves. Inside one of them, we found an impressive three-to-four-foot-tall Shivlinga, accompanied by a beautifully carved Navagraha panel (depicting the nine planetary deities). After exploring the remaining caves, we exited the main temple area and descended the steps toward the Govindananda Math. Adjacent to the monastery, a separate path branches off to the right. Following this trail for about twenty to twenty-five paces led us to another fascinating cluster of caves. We were particularly eager to witness the Sahastra Shivlinga and the Agni Vrisha idol located there. Pressed for time, we had to rush our viewing of these magnificent sculptures before heading to the Math to seek the blessings of Govindananda Swami.
The monastery attendant kindly offered us Mahaprasad (a traditional meal). Although we had been famished earlier, the sheer thrill of discovering the temple and its ancient carvings had made us completely forget our hunger and thirst. To respectfully accept his hospitality without delaying our descent, we took a small serving of sweet Bundi as prasad. It was getting late, and our top priority was to clear the forest trails before nightfall. The combination of the ancient Tantric caves and the surrounding dense woods cultivates a deeply mystical atmosphere around the temple. As evening approached, the profound silence took on a somewhat heavy, almost unsettling quality. Unaccustomed to such an intense environment, we were eager to head down.
Inadequate information and our earlier off-road detour meant we couldn't dedicate as much time to Pateshwar as the site truly deserves. We bid the temple goodbye with a firm resolution to return, leaving it to destiny to decide when that next opportunity will arise. We commenced our return trek at around 4:50 PM and safely reached the Degaon Welcome Arch by 5:10 PM. After grabbing some quick evening refreshments at a local shop in Degaon, we hit the road toward our next destination: Sangam Mahuli.
๐Go to the top of the page If you want to know more about Pateshwar Temple and Caves, read the following books.
1. Pateshwar A Research Paper - Author : Aditya Phadke
2. Pateshwar Caves and Temple Group - Author : Vijay Waikar
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1. Nine planetary folds 2. Shivaling
3. Chaturmukha Shivaling 4. Different types of Shivlings |
Sangam Mahuli, often revered as 'Dakshin Kashi' (the Kashi of the South), is about 30 kilometers from Degaon. We relied on Google Maps to guide us, but once again, the app completely led us astray. It had us driving in frustrating loops, returning to the exact same spot multiple times. Finally losing his patience, Vinayak parked the vehicle, and we decided to just walk directly toward the Shiva temple. The temple premises were bustling with crowds, largely due to couples arriving for festive photoshoots on the occasion of Makar Sankranti. Navigating through the crowds added to our fatigue. Initially, we wanted to cross the river to visit the Rameshwar temple on the opposite bank. However, unable to accurately gauge the water's depth, we decided it was wiser not to risk the crossing. We also ended up skipping the Sangameshwar temple and a few other local shrines, eventually returning to the main Shiva temple to seek the blessings of Lord Mahadev. While this ancient temple features minimal exterior carvings, the intricate sculptures of various snakes adorning its pillars are truly a sight to behold. Following our darshan, we visited the Ram Mandir and the Vitthal Rakhumai Mandir situated just behind the main complex.
By 6:45 PM, we officially wrapped up the second day of our tour. Having skipped lunch entirely, I was absolutely famished, so we decided to find a decent restaurant for dinner before retiring for the night. The place we chose, however, had a rather eccentric dining concept. They strictly served thalis, but bizarrely, they presented a variety of traditional Indian sweets as the "starters." Despite the quirky menu format, the food itself turned out to be surprisingly delicious! After finishing our meal, we headed out to return our rented two-wheeler. The owner inspected the vehicle, settled the final calculations, and refunded our deposit. Since our pre-booked accommodation was about a kilometer away, we comfortably covered the distance on foot.
Our final challenge of the day, however, was actually getting some sleep. Although Gokarna Lodge looked presentable from the outside, the interiors were a massive disappointment. The room was poorly maintained, featuring crumpled bedsheets and pillow covers that looked completely unwashed. When I went to the reception to request a change of linens, the manager astonishingly just handed me the clean sheets and expected me to do it myself! I had never experienced such a glaring lack of basic hospitality. Completely drained of energy from the day's adventures and knowing we had an early start the next morning, I simply didn't have the strength to argue. I carried the sheets back to the room, made the bed myself, and finally called it a night.
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1. Chatantrapati Shahu Maharaj Samadhi 2. Kirtimukh on the temple steps
3. Snake sculpture on temple pillar, 4. Sculpture of parrots on temple pillars |
Day Three
We woke up at 4:30 AM to start preparing for the day, only to discover there was no geyser for hot water in our room. We had to fetch an immersion heater from the reception and heat our water in a bucket, which wasted a good 25 to 30 minutes. Our plan was to hit the road by 6:00 AM, but thanks to the subpar amenities at Gokarna Lodge, our departure was delayed until 6:45 AM. We had already decided to check out that morning. Packing our essentials into a small daypack, we left our larger luggage at the lodge's reception and headed to the rental shop to pick up a two-wheeler. Today's itinerary was quite ambitious; our route would cover a total distance of around 120 kilometers, which meant we would incur double the standard rental fare.
After completing the paperwork, we hopped on the bike and rode directly toward the Baramotachi Vihir (stepwell). While we hadn't felt the cold at Sajjangad, the mercury had noticeably dropped this morning. I had overconfidently assumed I wouldn't need a hoodie—a decision I deeply regretted as the biting morning wind hit me during the ride. Thankfully, the morning sun soon began to rise, and the warmth of its rays provided some much-needed relief. After a 30-minute ride, we arrived at
Baramotachi Vihir right around 8:00 AM. The moment you lay eyes on this stepwell, the phrase "engineering marvel" immediately comes to mind. The structural design, the intricate decorations, and the stunning sculptures carved into the pillars are simply breathtaking!
Delving into its history,
Baramotachi Vihir was constructed by Shrimant Virubai Bhosale between 1719 and 1724 AD. This architectural masterpiece was built during the reign of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, the son of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj and the grandson of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. Historically, the village of Limb was surrounded by a large mango orchard (Amrai) consisting of around 300 trees. This grand stepwell was purposefully designed both to irrigate this vast orchard and to provide a reliable water source for the local residents.
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| Baramotachi Vihir (stepwell) and its sculptures |
After admiring the stepwell, a quick Google search for other historical sites in Limb village pointed us toward the nearby Koteshwar Temple. We set off at around 8:30 AM. However, as I approached our rented bike, I caught the strong scent of petrol and quickly discovered a leak. We immediately contacted the rental owner, who advised us to get it fixed at a local garage, promising to reimburse the repair costs. The catch was that at 8:30 in the morning, most shops were still closed. Since the leak was relatively minor, we decided not to panic and proceeded to the
Koteshwar Temple. Situated on the peaceful banks of the Krishna River, this temple has a unique custom: unlike most Shiva temples where devotees perform a half-pradakshina (circumambulation), here, a full pradakshina is the norm. Furthermore, male devotees are required to remove their shirts and leather belts before entering the inner sanctum. We opted for a serene darshan of Koteshwar Mahadev from the outside and then visited the adjacent
Ram temple to seek the blessings of Lord Rama. The bike was still leaking slightly, which left us a bit anxious about our fuel levels, especially knowing we had a full day of riding ahead.
Leaving Koteshwar Temple around 9:00 AM, we headed directly toward
Kalyangad. By this time, the village had started to wake up. We inquired at an open shop about a nearby mechanic, but the first garage we were directed to was closed. Not wanting to waste time, we pressed on and eventually found a mechanic in a neighboring village. After inspecting the two-wheeler, he assured us there was no major issue with the tank itself; a faulty pin was causing the leak. Although he didn't have the spare part to replace it, he confidently assured us that the tank wouldn't drain completely. Relieved, we continued our journey.
A narrow, unpaved trail branching off to the left of the main road leads to Kalyangad, easily identifiable on Google Maps with a small monastery and a shop opposite the turn. Fellow trekkers Asmit Mahadik and Umesh Thombare had forewarned us that the main gates of Kalyangad were locked, but access to the caves was open. They had also provided the contact number of a resident Sadhu. The fort can be reached by a two-wheeler, but the path is incredibly narrow and steep definitely not suited for four-wheelers. We rode carefully through the dense, silent forest, acutely aware that help would be non-existent in the event of an accident. Despite it being a Sunday, the trail was entirely deserted. The ride grew increasingly nerve-wracking as we ascended; the deteriorating road conditions meant a single loss of balance could send us tumbling into the valley. To stay safe, we hugged the mountain wall, keeping as far from the valley edge as possible. Along the way, we spotted a local man descending on his bike. We considered stopping him to ask about the fort's keys, but halting on that steep, precarious incline felt too risky. (Interestingly, we would bump into this same man later at the base of the fort). As we climbed, the picturesque windmills dotting the surrounding Satara hills offered a beautiful distraction.
The final stretch of the path, about a kilometer or so before the fort entrance, was too rugged for our bike. We parked it safely and continued on foot. After a 15-to-20-minute hike, we reached the fort's steps around 10:30 AM. At the entrance, the villagers had installed a large iron gate. We bowed our heads in reverence, stepped through, and after climbing just a few steps, found a directional board. The right path led to the fort, while the left led to a cave housing a Datta temple. We chose the cave first, removed our footwear, and descended 20 to 25 steps into the cavern. I was thankful I had brought my headlamp, as the cave was pitch black and navigating without a light source would have been impossible. Inside, we found stone-carved water cisterns, which remarkably retain water even during the harsh summer months. The villagers have thoughtfully installed railings to prevent any accidental falls into the tanks. The cave entrance is quite low, requiring you to bend down, but after 30 to 40 meters, the ceiling rises, allowing you to stand comfortably. To the right, there is a stunning stone-carved idol of the Jain Tirthankara, Shri Parshvanatha. A little further in, idols of a Goddess and Shri Dattaguru have been installed.
Though the signboard designates it as a Datta Mandir today, it is fundamentally an ancient Jain cave; the Hindu idols were added much later in the 20th century. After exploring the cave, we put our shoes back on and headed toward the main fort. Knowing the gate might be closed, we were initially thrilled to find the iron door seemingly unlocked. However, our joy was short-lived. Despite our best efforts, it wouldn't budge. Upon closer inspection,
we realized it was secured with internal locks at both the top and bottom. Asmit had mentioned an alternative
entry point through a bastion, but the frustration of the locked gate made me completely forget that piece of advice. We tried calling the Sadhu's contact number
(9764226107) several times, but there was no response. Disheartened, we eventually gave up. Perhaps if we had called ahead before climbing, we might have secured the keys. We carefully rode our bike back down to the base village and stopped at a small shop for some tea.
When we asked the shop owner (an elderly local 'aunty') why the fort was locked, she explained that tourists had recently stolen items from the monastery and vandalized the fort's dargah, prompting the villagers to restrict access. When we asked for drinking water, she handed us plastic cups and watched carefully. She lamented that people couldn't be trusted—after having three steel glasses stolen by visitors, she switched to plastic, only to have one of those stolen as well! It certainly made us wonder whether the fort's thefts were really the work of tourists or locals. She also mentioned that had we asked at the monastery opposite her shop before heading up, we could have taken the keys with us. Just as we were leaving, the same local man we had passed on the hill arrived at the shop. We asked him if he had the keys, and he denied it, though the look on his face strongly suggested otherwise. With two more forts left on our itinerary and the clock hitting 11:45 AM, we decided not to dwell on it and immediately set off for Sakhargad.
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1. Stairs leading to the fort 2. Kalyangad Entrance
3. Ancient idol of Parshvanatha 4. Goddess idol
5. Windmills visible from the fort 6. Idol of Sri Dattaguru |
Despite its name,
Sakhargad is not actually a fort but a prominent hill renowned for the Ambabai Devi temple. The temple complex is fortified by an enclosing wall, which gives the hill the imposing appearance of a fortress. However, unlike a traditional Maratha fort, it lacks defensive military structures like bastions or Jangyas (small hole for gun firing). The drive from the base of Kalyangad to Sakhargad is a brief
7.5 kilometers, and we reached the entrance within 20 minutes, arriving by 12:10 PM. To our immense relief, the petrol leak on our rented two-wheeler had finally stopped, though we still made sure to park it in a secure spot. While a flight of stone steps leads from the base up to the temple, we opted to ride up to save time. From the parking area, a beautiful stone staircase guided us to the main entrance.
The temple's grand entrance closely resembles the sturdy gates of a fort. Upon entering, you are greeted by a stone idol of a goddess on the left, backed by two traditional lamp posts. Right next to these stands a stone plaque declaring the site a "
UNESCO World Heritage Site" a testament to its profound historical significance, the reasons for which would become increasingly apparent as we explored. Directly in front of the temple rests a stone Nandi, while the inner hall houses the goddess's palanquin alongside various traditional paintings. We proceeded into the sanctum sanctorum (gabhara) for a peaceful darshan of the goddess. Respecting the clear signage prohibiting photography, we refrained from taking pictures of the main idol. The architectural style speaks volumes about the temple's antiquity, featuring intricate carvings adorning the exterior of the sanctum.
We observed beautifully detailed sculptures of deities like Ganapati, Nagdevata, Vitthal, Maruti, and Garuda, alongside several Mithuna figures. However, the carving that captivated me the most was a lion on the temple's right pillar. This specific "two-in-one" optical illusion—where a lion's body is carved on two intersecting faces of a square pillar but shares a single head at the corner—is incredibly rare. It instantly reminded me of the brilliant architectural styles I had marveled at during my trip to the Vijayanagara ruins in Hampi. Interestingly, despite functioning as a Devi temple today, the layout strongly suggests it was originally dedicated to Lord Shiva. The presence of the Nandi at the forefront, coupled with the traditional pranala (drainage spout) and kund (water receptacle) on the left side to channel the holy water from the sanctum, are classic hallmarks of a Shiva temple. To the left of the temple stands an old palace structure (wada), currently occupied by villagers and thus inaccessible to the public. Fortunately, there is a private washroom behind the temple that visiting tourists are permitted to use. Adjacent to the palace on the left is a magnificent
Deepmaal (lamp tower). This particular structure is quite unique, as each lamp bracket is intricately carved in the shape of a peacock. As I approached to capture a photo of this masterpiece, an elderly local woman began shouting, strictly forbidding photography on that side of the temple. I respectfully pocketed my phone and simply stood there to admire the craftsmanship, but this only seemed to agitate her further. Wanting to avoid an unnecessary argument, I retreated and sat near the entrance. My trekking partner, Vinayak, however, was undeterred; he quietly slipped over a little later and managed to snap a brilliant photo of the Deepmaal. After spending a rewarding 40 minutes exploring this world heritage site, we wrapped up our visit at Sakhargad and set off toward our next destination, Vardhangad, at around 12:50 PM.
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| Sculptures from the temple at Sakhargad |
On our way to
Vardhangad, we spotted a Raswanti Griha (sugarcane juice stall). We cooled down with two refreshing glasses of fresh sugarcane juice, refilled our empty water bottles, and resumed our journey. The distance between Sakhargad and Vardhangad is about 21 kilometers. Taking the Chanchali Road, we soon merged onto the Satara-Pandharpur highway. Along the way, we passed numerous bullock carts and tractors heavily loaded with sugarcane, eventually realizing they were all heading to a nearby sugar factory. Shortly after, the imposing silhouette of Vardhangad came into view; the fort's robust fortifications are clearly visible straight from the ghat road. After navigating the ghat, we took a left turn toward Pawarwadi Road. At the intersection (titha), two cannons from the fort have been placed as a historical landmark. Continuing along Pawarwadi Road, we took another left, entered the base village, and parked our bike in the shade. When we asked a local resident for the exact trail to Vardhangad, he pointed straight ahead to a flight of stairs. As we began our ascent, I noticed that the villagers had constructed these steps at their own expense, and they had done a commendable job. Since we had already covered half the mountain's elevation on our vehicle, the remaining climb wasn't extensive. However, at 2:00 PM, the afternoon heat was exhausting. What should have been a quick 15-minute hike took us 30 minutes.
We finally reached the fort's entrance. The classic Gomukhi (cow-faced) architectural design of the main gate makes it instantly clear that this fort was built during the Maratha era. A cool, refreshing breeze was blowing near the doorway, so we sat there for about 15 minutes to catch our breath. At around 2:45 PM, we paid our respects at the threshold, entered the fort, and took a right turn along the path. Our first stop was a small Shiva temple, and after seeking Lord Mahadev's blessings, we moved forward. We soon came across a Hanuman shrine housed in a small devli (niche). While taking darshan of Lord Maruti, we spotted a stunning blue bird perched near a water cistern. It was so perfectly still that I initially mistook it for a painted poster! As I stepped closer to snap a photo, it took flight—definitely a real bird. I tried multiple times to capture it on camera, but it swiftly fluttered from tree to tree, outsmarting me at every turn.
Giving up on the wildlife photography, we continued on and reached the temple of
Goddess Vardhini mata. The temple priest (Pujari Kaka) was performing a ritual, beautifully draping a traditional saree over the striking black stone idol of the Goddess. After our darshan, we sat in the temple courtyard and had a heartfelt chat with him. He expressed deep frustration with the local political leaders, noting that they severely neglect the upkeep of certain forts. For instance, the construction of the fort's access steps remains incomplete due to this apathy. After our conversation, we walked out to the open plateau. We sat near a small shrine, snacked on some biscuits, and shared a few with a friendly local dog. By 3:15 PM, we began our descent, reaching the base village in just 10 minutes. Our original itinerary included a visit to the Mahimangad fort next. However, traveling there would have added significant kilometers to our rented vehicle, incurring double rental fares for crossing our distance limit. Since our expenses had already overshot our budget, we decided to skip Mahimangad and instead headed toward the Shri Sevagiri Maharaj Math in Pusegaon.
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| Gomukhi entrance at Vardhangad, Water Tanks and Temples on the Fort |
From Vardhangad, the Shri
Sevagiri Maharaj Math is a short 5.6-kilometer drive. We arrived at the monastery around 3:45 PM. Since the grand Rath Utsav (chariot festival) had taken place just two days prior, and it happened to be a Sunday, the Math was bustling with devotees. Initially, we were quite confused about where the queue for the Maharaja's Samadhi darshan actually began. We asked a fellow devotee for guidance, and he directed us up an iron staircase to the first floor, where the line formed. Following his instructions, we headed upstairs and joined the queue. I must appreciate the temple administration; their crowd management was exceptionally well-planned.
After paying our heartfelt respects at the Samadhi, we walked over to an ancient Shiva temple located nearby to seek the blessings of Lord Mahadev. Before leaving, we stopped by the prasad counter near the Math's main gate, gratefully received our prasad, and exited the premises around 4:15 PM. Just outside the monastery, a local vendor was selling fresh Ahmedabadi bore. We bought half a kilo to munch on during our ride and hit the road, making our way back toward Sangam Mahuli.
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| Shree Sevagiri Maharaj Math - Pusegaon |
We decided to grab a late lunch before reaching
Sangam Mahuli, so we circled back to Pusegaon to look for a restaurant. Unable to find a suitable place, we resumed our journey and eventually dined at an eatery near the highway. Although we had visited Sangam Mahuli the previous day, we had missed the
Rameshwar temple in the Kshetra Mahuli area. We also wanted to see the Samadhi of Maharani Tarabai (Tara Rani), which is why we decided to return.
We arrived at Kshetra Mahuli around 6:20 PM. Pre-wedding photoshoots were happening here as well, though the crowds were noticeably thinner than the day before. As we descended the steps into the temple complex, we noticed the right-hand boundary wall was leaning precariously. Anticipating its eventual collapse and planning for its restoration, the Archaeology Department has systematically numbered each stone to ensure they can be accurately reassembled later. Inside the temple premises,
we spotted two Deepmaals (lamp towers). The larger of the two was remarkably similar to the exquisite peacock-style Deepmaal we had seen earlier at Sakhargad, though this one was structurally supported by iron bars. A beautifully carved black stone Nandi sat majestically outside the main shrine. After stepping inside for a peaceful darshan of Lord Mahadev, we explored the other sculptures around the complex.
Tucked into a niche in the wall were two distinct idols: one of the deity
Garuda, and another of
Lord Shankara.
This was my first time seeing a rare, four-faced idol of Shankara; we had heard there was one at Pateshwar, but we hadn't been able to find it during our visit there. Locals often mistakenly refer to this four-faced idol as Lord Brahma (who is traditionally depicted with four heads). However, a closer look reveals a third eye carved on the forehead of the primary face, confirming that it is indeed Lord Shiva. Continuing to the rear of the complex, we found another shrine dedicated to Lord Rama. Although its doors were closed, we could clearly see five divine figures inside: Lord Hanuman, Shatrughna, Lord Rama with Goddess Sita, Bharat, and Lakshmana. This sacred grouping is traditionally known as the
Ram Panchayatn.
After paying our respects to Lord Rama, we set out to find Tara Rani's Samadhi. Google Maps was proving unreliable once again, so we asked a local resident for directions. He informed us that the memorial was actually located on the opposite side of the river. Riding there would have meant adding more kilometers to our rented two-wheeler, pushing us further past our distance limit and incurring extra rental charges. Since getting lost on Google Maps had already cost us extra kilometers the previous day, we made the practical decision to skip the Samadhi and headed off to see the Nataraja temple instead.
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1. Ancient Deepmal 2. Nandi in front of Rameshwar Temple
3. Statue of Garuda 4. Chaturmukh Shiva Idol
5. Ram Panchayatn 6. Krishna River and Sangam Mahuli area |
The Shri Uttar Chidambaram Nataraja Temple is located just 2.4 kilometers from Sangam Mahuli, and we covered the distance in a quick 5 to 6 minutes. Arriving at 6:45 PM, we were right on time to witness the evening aarti. Once the rituals concluded, we had a peaceful darshan of Lord Vishnu and spent a little time exploring the other shrines within the beautiful temple complex. Since we had rented our two-wheeler at 7:30 AM on a strict 12-hour limit, we needed to drop it off between 7:30 PM and 8:00 PM. Mindful of the ticking clock, we kept our temple visit brief and rode straight to Rajpurohit Sweets at Powai Naka to pick up boxes of Satara's famous Kandi Pedhe.
With our sweets in hand, we headed directly back to Gokarna Lodge. We collected our luggage from the reception and took a moment to freshen up. Given our bitter experience with their subpar service, we gladly bid our final "Ram Ram" (goodbye) to the lodge, firmly resolving never to book a stay there again. We then made our way to the rental shop to return our vehicle. Since there was still a substantial amount of petrol left in the tank, Vinayak smartly brought it up with the owner and managed to negotiate a ₹200 refund on our final bill. From there, we headed out to the Mumbai-Satara Expressway, which was the pick-up point for our return bus to Mumbai.
However, as we reached the highway, a major dilemma stared us in the face: it was only 8:30 PM, and our overnight bus wasn't scheduled to arrive until 12:30 AM. We were now left wondering where and how we were going to kill four long hours on the side of the highway!
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| Shri Uttar Chidambaram Nataraja Temple |
Initially, we managed to spent about 30 to 35 minutes sitting peacefully outside the Nataraja temple. However, as the clock struck 9:00 PM, the temple gates were shut for the night. The security guard politely asked us to leave, warning us that the guard dogs were about to be let loose across the premises. Now began the real struggle of finding a safe place to wait out the night. We took a stroll along the Mumbai-Satara highway, scouted a few potential spots, and eventually headed into Suraj Restaurant for dinner around 9:30 PM. We deliberately chewed as slowly as humanly possible to pass the time but there's only so long you can stretch out a meal!
By 10:30 PM, we were finished with dinner and had no choice but to spend the next two hours sitting on the dusty steps of a closed ATM near our bus stop. True to the Marathi idiom "Dushkalat Terava Mahina" (experiencing a thirteenth month in a famine, or going from bad to worse), the agonizing wait felt endless. To add to our exhaustion, our 12:30 AM bus was delayed by half an hour, finally rolling in at 1:00 AM. Immensely relieved, we boarded the bus and commenced our journey back home to Mumbai.
While this trip came to an end, there are still so many magnificent historical sites and Maratha forts left to explore in Satara. I look forward to returning to this beautiful region whenever destiny decides the time is right!
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Details of expenses (excluding meal and breakfast expenses)
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.jpg "Sunrise view from Natures Trail")
.jpg "Old Woman's Shoe' (Mhataricha Boot)")
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.jpg "Banganga Lake")
.jpg "Ancient Shiv Statue")
.jpg "Kirtimukha (among the ruins of the ancient temple)")
.jpg "Walukeshwar Shivling")
