Tuesday, September 7, 2021

Torna fort - My First Trek

 

Mode of Transport: private bus

Per head cost: 300 Rs

Journey Date: 23-June-2013




History of the fort Torna


    While Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was establishing Swarajya in AD. This fort was first taken in 1647. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj took this fort and built the toran of Swarajya, so this fort was named as Torna fort. While inspecting the fort, Maharaja changed its name to ' Prachandagad ' due to its huge expansion. The money found in this fort was used by Shivaji Maharaj for the construction of Rajgad.

    Evidence is not available today as to when and by whom Torna Fort was built. From the ruins of caves and temples here, it must have been an ashram of the Shaivite sect. etc. S. Between 1470 and 1486, the fort was conquered by Malik Ahmad for Bahamani rule. Later this fort went to Nizamshahi. Later Shivaji Maharaj took it and named it Prachandagad and built some buildings on the fort. Maharaja restored many forts after coming from Agra. Out of that, he spent 5 thousand on the pylon. After Sambhaji Maharaj was brutally murdered, this fort went to the Mughals. Shankaraji Narayan secretary brought it back to the Marathas. Further etc. S. In 1704, Aurangzeb besieged it and captured it after a battle and named it Futuulgaib meaning Divine Victory. But after four years Sarnobat Nagoji Kokate brought people to the fort and brought the fort back under the control of the Marathas and after that Torana remained in Swarajya forever. Among the forts which were given to the Mughals in the Treaty of Purandar, Torna remained with Maharaj. Interestingly, this is the only fort of the Marathas which was won by Aurangzeb. There is an ancient temple of Goddess Mengai on Torna Fort. (Courtesy Wikipedia) .

Binni Darwaja Torna Fort
Binni Darwaja



Travel and Trekking Experience


    The late Nitin Chandrakant Desai's TV series Raja Shiv Chhatrapati has reignited interest in historical events, sparking a trend of visiting Shivaji Maharaj's forts. The series depicts 10-12 Mavalas capturing a fort in battle, portraying it as situated on a modest hill rather than a towering peak. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj conquered this fort, Torna, in 1646 at the age of 16, a time when today’s students are typically preparing for their 10th-grade exams, making Torna their own "exam" of courage. Before embarking, I researched Torna Fort on Google, learning it stands 4,604 feet above sea level. This fact should have alarmed me, but it didn’t. The TV series so captivated my mind that I underestimated the height’s challenge. Thinking the trek would be easy, I signed up for trek with the help of my colleague, Suyog Khude.

    The trek was organized by RSS (Rashtriya Seva Sangh) Santacruz, and I arrived at Vakola, Santa Cruz, by 10:00 PM. The organization had arranged three buses. As a non-member, some organizers confirmed with my friend that I could join trek with RSS without issues. I reassured my friend, saying, "I’m fine, I just want to explore Shivaji Maharaj’s forts!" Along with my friend Suyog, 150 members embarked on the journey. We sang patriotic songs and powadas throughout, the vibrant atmosphere keeping us awake. By around 6:00 AM, we reached Velhe village at the base of Torna Fort.


Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Statue at Vellhe Village
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Statue at Vellhe Village

    As I stepped off the bus, my naive instincts prompted me to scan 360 degrees, eagerly searching for Torna Fort 😂. Unable to spot it, I assumed it was nearby. In Velhe village, I admired and photographed the striking statues of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and Baji Prabhu Deshpande before our group headed to a local restaurant for breakfast. After enjoying misal pav, we began the trek around 7:00 AM, and I joined the group with excitement. While walking, I noticed a rope in one member’s hand, curious about its purpose. Minutes later, we encountered a natural yet man-made waterfall, paused briefly to enjoy it, and continued toward the fort. With the rainy season bringing low-hanging clouds that shrouded the mountain’s peak, gauging the distance ahead was challenging. Yet, this obscurity fueled my optimism, convincing me the fort wasn’t too high, so I pressed on.

Artificial Waterfall
Artificial Waterfall

Beautiful Forest
Beautiful Forest

    Most of the group had forged ahead, but as a first-time trekker, I was already exhausted. The line of hikers snaking along the winding path resembled a trail of ants. Just 40–45 minutes in, I was drained. My friend, sensing my struggle, urged me on, saying, “Only a few hundred meters to go!” After an hour of trudging, we crossed a mountain and reached a path linking two peaks. The wind there was so fierce it felt like it could lift us off the ground. Two hours later, we arrived at a rocky outcrop, about 10–12 feet high. Channeling “Bear Grylls” from Man vs. Wild, we scaled the rock with confidence. But, unlike Bear, we hadn’t learned how to descend 😁—I felt like Abhimanyu, who knew how to enter the Chakravyuh but not how to escape it.

        
View from mountain
View from mountain
      After two hours of trekking, around 9:30 a.m., I glanced up and was awestruck by the towering fortification. In that moment, my naive perspective matured. All my assumptions were shattered—how could Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and his soldiers have scaled such a formidable fort, laden with heavy weapons, and not only climbed but also conquered it in battle? Overwhelmed, I felt a pang of shame for my childish thoughts. Silently, I apologized to Shivaji Maharaj and his brave warriors and pressed on toward the fort.


View from mountain

View from mountain

    An hour later, around 10:30 a.m., we reached Binni Darwaja. I bowed respectfully and entered the fort. To the left of the entrance stood small temples, and further ahead, a large water tank came into view, with the temple of Meghai Devi at its rear. I visited the temple, seeking the goddess’s blessings. Continuing left from the temple, we arrived at Konkan Darwaja, named for the path descending into the Konkan region. To the right of Meghai Devi’s temple lies Budhla Machi, but we avoided it due to thick fog.


Way to Kokan Darwaja
Way to Kokan Darwaja

Kokan Darwaja Torana Fort
Kokan Darwaja


    After exploring the fort’s architecture as much as possible, we gathered at a dilapidated structure under restoration, spacious enough for our group. Together, we saluted as the saffron flag of Hindavi Swarajya was hoisted, fluttering proudly. One member shared the fort’s history and tales of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj’s valor. We concluded with the national anthem before beginning our descent around noon. On the way down, we paused briefly at a waterfall before continuing our journey back.

Waterfall
Waterfall


    We reached the rock patch again, and I was anxious, unsure how to descend. As noted earlier, one member held a rope, which we used to safely lower everyone. My legs trembled during the descent, but a teammate steadied me, guiding my feet onto stone blocks until I reached the ground. Relieved, I continued downward. The rain had turned the soil sticky and slick, forcing us to slide down on our backsides in some spots. While doing so, one of two young boys trailing me accidentally stepped on my fingers. He quickly apologized, but his friend quipped, “Three fingers of Shahistakhan chopped off!” The pain faded as I burst into laughter. 
    Amid such moments, we reached Velhe village at the foothills around 2:00 p.m. After lunch at a local restaurant, we began our journey back to Mumbai by 4:00 p.m. Traffic on the Mumbai-Pune route delayed us, and we arrived in Mumbai around 11:00 p.m.

    Regrettably, rainy clouds obscured parts of the fort, leaving some areas unseen. I resolved to return someday to explore Torna Fort fully. I’ll wait for the chance to revisit. Heartfelt thanks to my friend Suyog Khude and all RSS members for this opportunity to experience Torna Gad 🙏.

Places to see on the fort

Water cirsten
Meghai godess Temple
Budhla Machi
Binni Darwaja
Chilkhati buruj
Kokan Darwaja
Hanuman buruj


Shiva ling at Torna Fort
Shivaling at Torna Fort

Nandi at Torna Fort
Nandi at Torna Fort

View from Mountain
View from Mountain

View from Mountain
View from Mountain

Bastion
Bastion

Devli on fort Torna
Small Temple on fort Torna

Karvi Seasonal Plant
Karvi Seasonal Plant

Saturday, July 31, 2021

Vispur Fort Trek - Younger brother of Lohagad Fort

 


Commence Date : 26-Dec-2019
Mode of Transport : Train




History of the fort Visapur

 

              Visapur fort situated at 3556 feet above sea level. In the mountain of Visapur, Bhaje caves are there which was carved by Pandavas. Inside the fort, there is one ancient encryption on the water tank which is written in Bramhi font by seeing this we can come to know how old this fort is. Bramhi font is used in the ancient Satvahan era of about 1500 to 2000 years back (100 – 70 BCE)

 

        This fort was rebuilt and made stronger by Peshwa Balaji Vishwanath of Maratha emperor in the year between 1717 to 1720. In the year 1818 British capture this fort and started bombarding on Lohagad fort as the height of Vispur fort is more than Lohagad fort and the very next day, Lohagad fort was also concurred by British. You will not see any entrance gate on Visapur fort-like other forts because the British army destroys all gates and routs coming towards the fort so that in the future Maratha army will not capture and reuse the fort again against the British army.


 

Travel and Trekking Experience

  
    We started our journey from CSMT station (Mumbai) at 6.40 AM via Mumbai Pune Intercity express and got down at Lonavala station around 9:10 AM. I had made breakfast outside Lonavala station at Anand restaurant (Dhaba) as we had to wait for a Pune local train. We took Pune local at 10.10 AM and got to the very next station at Malavli.

    We got down at Malavli around 10:20 AM and started walking towards Visapur fort. We took a left from the end of the bridge which is over the Pune express highway to reach Patan village, as we decided to take the Patan route to ascend. Initially, we took the help of villagers to get on the correct path. The trek route from Patan village gives you a mesmerizing experience. Dense forest and small waterfalls give you a heaven. While ascending, keep Patan village on the left and Visapur fort on the right and there is an arrow marking on the rocks to guide you. You can see fortifications after you complete half the trek.


Malavli Station is the nearest station to reach Visapur fort and Lohagad fort
You can reach Malavli Station in 10 mins
from Lonavala Station


A signboard on the overhead bridge
A signboard on the overhead bridge


   It takes around 2 Hrs to reach the top. We reached around 12.30 pm. To explore the complete fort it took around 3 to 4 hrs. The view of Lohagad and Pawna lake from Visapur fort is awesome. Due to the time limit (we decided to board Pune intercity from Lonavala at 6:45 PM) we started descending and reached around 3:30 PM at Lohagadwadi (waterfall) and reached the base of the fort at 4:30 PM. By walking we, reach the Lohagad route at there we took tea and snack, we decided to do lunch at Lonavala as we have to catch Lonavala local and Pune Mumbai Intercity express (take the help of the M-indicator app for train timing and plan accordingly). with the help of local tempo, we reach Malavli station at 5:15 PM. We catch Pune Lonavla local at Malavli at 5:30 PM and reach Lonavala at 5:45 PM.


Cannon on the fort
Fortification wall


   We had lunch at Lonavala station and did some shopping and at 6:47 PM we boarded the Pune Mumbai intercity express. (Note:- do reservation. To enter, in general, bogi is very very difficult). We reached Mumbai (Dadar station) around 9:40 pm. 


Places to see on the fort

Water cisterns
Lord Shiva temple
Sadar or Peshwa Wada
Fortification
Lord Hanuman carving
Canons

 


Places to see nearby


If you plan your journey well and you are a regular trekker then you can visit a minimum of three and a maximum of four places.

1. Bhaje Caves,

2. Visapur Fort,

3. Lohagad Fort,

4. Karla Caves / Ekvira Devi temple



Shivling on the fort (Shiva Temple)
Shivling on the fort (Shiva Temple)
Dipstamb
Fortification wall
Fortification wall
Water tank

 


Thursday, February 4, 2021

Sudhagad Trek: A Fort Claimant to the Maratha capital

 


Journey Date: 26-June-2019

Mode of Transport : Train and MSRTC bus





History of the fort


    The height of the fort is around 2,030 feet above sea level. The origin of this fort is said to date back to the 2nd century B.C the same age as the Thanale Caves and Khadsamble caves nearby. It was then called Bhrorapgad (after its presiding deity, Bhoraidevi). In 1436, it was captured by the Bahamani Sultan. In 1657, the Marathas took over and renamed it “Sudhagad”(the sweet one). It was a large fort and replica of Raigad. Sudhagad was considered by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj as the capital of his kingdom. He surveyed it but instead chose Raigad because of its central location.

    In the regime of the Peshwas, the ‘Pantsachivas’ of Bhor became the custodians of this fort. After the annexation of princely states in 1950, the fort became patronless. It was built for defensive advantage due to a rise in elevation It is situated in Pali, Maharashtra, and lies within the Sudhagad Wildlife Sanctuary.

 


Travel and Trekking Experience


    We started our journey from Dadar station (Mumbai) by Ratnagiri passenger at 3:00 PM and got down at Nagothne station around 8:30 PM. From Asangaon station we took an auto-rickshaw for chikhli village, we had dinner and night stay at friend Sumit’s house. (you can stay at Ballaleshwar Ganpati temple guest house for this you have to do inquiry at Bhakta Niwas2 Phone: 02142 242 429).

    We woke up at 5:00 AM and got ready for the journey. Around 7:00 AM, we boarded the MSRTC bus from Chikhli towards Pali Ballaleshwar Ganpati temple. We did prayer and went for breakfast to the nearest restaurant as we had to wait for the MRSTC bus which goes to Thakurwadi base village (Note: do inquiry in MRSTC Pali depot or take help from local people for timing). Around 10:00 AM we boarded the MRSTC bus and reached, Thakur wadi base village at 10:30 AM.

Mountain of Sudhagad
Sudhagad Mountain
Sudhagad Fort
1st Ladder on Sudhagad

    We started hiking from Thakurwadi village. The hiking route goes from the village. Local people will help to take the correct path. After 20 to 30 mins of the walk, we reached a small plateau where you can rest and the view from the plateau is awesome. After some walking, we reached the 1st ladder. The condition of the ladder is not good. The base is detached from the ground but it can resist your weight so carefully climb. After a 5 minute's walk, we reached the 2nd ladder, which was in good condition. At this point, we had completed 50% of the trek. In some areas, there is an arrow marking. We followed the marking and reached the fort steps from there fort wall were visible so we thought we have reached the top of the mountain but it was the wrong assumption, we took a rest at steps and at the bastion, took phots and start walking, after 30 mins of the trek we reached the top of the mountain but these 30 mins are thougf due to steep climbing.

 

View from Sudhagad top

Shiv Temple at Sudhagad Fort
2nd Shiv temple
    Once we reached the top of the mountain again, we took 10 minutes' rest. Initially, we were confused about which direction we had to start to explore the fort, then we saw a yellow colored board which was approximately 0.5 KM away. We started walking towards the board and saw it was showing the direction towards Lord Shiva temple and Kamal talav (lake) *Thanks to Ba Raigad group for installing direction boards and fort restoration work. We prayed at the Shiv temple and went towards the lake which is behind Shiva temple. The lake was almost dry as the rainy season had not yet started. Then we saw more temples. We reached the temple, which is Lord Ganesh temple, then we started walking towards Peshwa Wada (Ministers Palace)'. While going towards Peshwa Wada, there are many ruined structures, which give you an idea of the structure and size of the house. We reached Peshwa Wada. The place is beautiful. We were lucky to see ancient household equipment, like giant grain hand grinding millstones, a stone vase to store water, etc. We found a fort map on board, once again, thanks to the Baa Raigad group. This map helps us a lot to find other places in the fort.

            

Fort steps
Pantancha wada Sudhagad Fort
Pant sachivancha Wada

Tail Baila
View of Tail Baila from Sudhagad

    Besides Peshwa Wada, one more Shiv Temple named as Bhoraeshwar, which was painted recently which indicated some religious event occurred a few days before, from shiv temple we started walking towards Bhorai Devi temple. The temple is big. Outside the temple, ancient encryption stones were kept. One deep-stamb (ancient light poll) is there. Inside the temple, an idol of the tiger is there, which is the vehicle of the goddess Bhorai. The idol of goddess Bhori is beautifully carved in black stone. Behind Bhorai Devi temple there are tombs and shrines. From there, we started walking towards Lord Hanuman temple. From there there is a way towards Mahadarwaja (Main Gate). Due to time limitations, we skipped and headed towards seeing Daru Kothar (ammunition storage). There are a total of three storage houses there. From there we moved ahead towards Takmak tok. Here we stopped exploring the fort and decided to start the return journey as we had to board an MSRTC bus which comes at 4:00 PM. Around 3:00 PM we started descending and reached at base village Thakurwadi at 4:00 PM from there we reached Pali village, we had lunch around 4:30 PM at Pali.at

    From Pali bus depot, we took the MRSTC bus and got off at Mumbai Goa highway junction. From there, we hired 6 sitters and reached Panvel station. From Panvel station, we boarded the CSMT train and got down at Dadar station.

    Note: To explore the entire fort it will take 4 to 5 hrs, excluding ascending and descending time. It would be better if you had your own vehicle.

    

Places to see on the fort


Shiv Mandir

Kamal talav (LAKE)

Bhorai Devi temple

Mahadarvaja (Main gate)

Daru kothar

Peshwa Wada

View of Tail Baila and Ghangad fort

Water cisterns

Ancient encryption

Deep-stamb

 


Places to see nearby

 

For all below five places including Sudhagad fort, you have to plan your holiday at least for 4 days. Even you are a regular and good trekker you can complete only one fort per day including Ballaleshwar temple and hot water pond.


Ballaleshwar Temple

Hot spring water pond

Sarasgad fort

Ghangad fort

Tail Baila fort


Important Note


1)    Do prior inquire about public transport (MSRTC Bus) timing and start descending accordingly.

2)    Take al least 2 to 3 liters of water, there are water cisterns on the fort for freshwater.

3)    Take snacks and energy drink powder like Electral / Enerzal powder.

4)    Careful on the metal ladder while climbing and coming down.

5)    You can plan for a night stay on fort in Peshwa Wada (palace).



2nd Ladder

Kamal Talav

Stone vase to store water

Tiger statue at Bhori Devi temple

Deepmal

Tombstones of warriors

Shivling at 3rd Shiv temple (Bhoraeshwar)

View from Sudhagad

Encryptions and Shrines at Bhori Devi temple
Bhorai Devi Sudhagad
The idol of Bhorai Devi
Daru Kothar
Sudhagad Fort Map
Sudhagad fort map
Hand grinding millstone

Lord Hanuman Temple

Shrines

Ruined Lord Hanuman temple

Ghangad from Sudhagad
View of Ghangad from Sudhagad fort